Capri is our next destination, to get there we need to take a Taxi from the hotel in Travestere to Roma Termini (Central Station) - where we will take a high speed train to Napoli. Once in Napoli we need to take a taxi to the Port and catch a ferry to Capri, when in Capri we need to take a taxi from the port to the hotel which is just outside Capri Town Centre. What could possibly go wrong!
Remember last night we may have had one too many Limencellos with our Canadian friends, so rising and packing was a little hard for some. Some couldn't even face a breakfast. We all just got on with it and got a taxi to Central station, traffic in Roma was not too bad which was a great thing. Pat sat in the front and she is a front seat driver in the sleepy streets of Ponteland. Poor thing was moving this way and that, breaking and wincing as we just missed people on scooters and passing cars. It was entertaining to watch from the back seat. We get to Central station in plenty time, only to find that our train had been delayed by 40 minutes, which means we are probably going to miss our ferry at 12 noon.
There was a later train that was leaving earlier, so I joined a queue to speak to the ticketing office to see if we could change, by the time I got seen the earlier later train had already left - so there was no point, The train came and we found our carriage with no issues. Pat was very worried about the suitcase not being near us, so John grew some muscles and lifted the suitcases onto the overhead shelf. Now Pat was worried in case the train hit a bump and the suitcase got dislodged and fell on a passenger, or maybe even a conductor!
We arrive at the Port and the 12:40pm and the ferry doesn't seem to have boarded yet, no queue at the ticket office - and yippee we got tickets to the 12:40pm Ferry, which saved a very long hot wait til 2pm.
Onto the ferry we went, as we were last on, we couldn't get seats together. The ferry ride is 50 minutes and was very calm and pleasant, unlike the chaos that ensued at Capri. Just too many tourists for the infrastructure - so it was a long hot wait for a taxi. It is now nearing 2:30pm and Pat hasn't eaten - she is ravenous.
We eventually get a taxi, ha ha in Sunderland colours! Taxi ride is eventful and expertly driven in the very narrow winding streets of Capri.
Our hotel's entrance is on a corner with no pedestrian access to the entrance, so you have to dodge the traffic to get into the hotel - this is all a bit much for 86 year old Patty. It is hot and humid and there is a long uphill walk to the hotel - we get checked in and walk to the closest restaurant which is back out the hotel, to the roundabout and a few minutes down the street - then down some stairs. John walks slowly with Pat and I go ahead, making sure that we go the correct way. I find the restaurant and run back and gesture to John and Pat to make the journey down the stairs, only to find that the restaurant is closed. I then begged and pleaded with the maitre d to allow us to eat, as my 86 year old mother-in-law had made the trip down the stairs. He agreed, phew!
Lunch was very pleasant overlooking the Bay of Napoli. Pat was back on the Wine Spritzer in fighting spirit (pardon the pun).
Off home for a siesta. Our room has a balcony overlooking the ocean, so after an afternoon cuppa and chinwag, Pat retired to her room and John and I went out on the town. Capri was buzzing, the shops were all open late selling designer goods and tourist tat! It had such a great vibe about it, I did a bit of shopping and we found this lovely pizzeria for dinner. Bellissimo!
We awoke with much clearer heads than the day before, it was beautiful day. First up the gardens of Augustus, which involves a walk into town. This was Pat's first venture into Capri itself - it was quite a long walk but the temperature was mild and there weren't too many tourists around. The gardens are not so much a garden but a very good view point of the Capri coastline, the blue grotto and faraglioni (which is a rock formation just off of Capri).
One of the photos below shows the morning rush of boats to bring tourists onto the Island, by 11am the place is teeming with people.
The morning rush, that is Vesuvius in the background
For Mum.
The boats queueing for the Blue Grotto
Via Krupp walk-way
After the gardens, we stop for a little people watching and a rest. The town is starting to get really busy, we are now going to catch a bus to get to Anacapri, which is the other town on the Island. We get tickets to the bus and the queue is quite long, one bus comes, another bus comes and we still look a like we are a couple more bus loads to go before us. Then I noticed a couple not being allowed on the bus without face masks, and of course we hadn't brought ours. We had a bit of time before we reached the front of the queue, so John offered to go back to the hotel and get our masks, it is hot and quite a way away. We had been chatting to this American, and he went to go and check and they sold the masks across the road, so he went and bought us some. I phone John who had almost reached the hotel and he came back. In the meantime Pat is like a little buzzing bee worrying her little head off that the bus will come and John won't be back. John came back in time, the American came back in time - all was well.
The bus ride to Anacapri is something, the buses are small with 8 seats and the rest standing room. You really have to hang on if you are standing, below is a photo of Pat sitting down...
Once in Anacapri, we have lunch and then go up the Chair Lift to a viewing point, the Chair Lift's ride was single car's - which means that Pat has to go on her own. Pat and moving things are like oil to water. I go first, I have her bag, her hat and all and I pre-warn the guy that he needs to slow it down for Pat, which they do. The journey is 13 mins long and very tranquil and beautiful, at the end I jump off and warn the guy that Mama will need help. Pat puts the bar up, no problem them proceeds to stay seated like some instrument would pluck her off the chair. I go in to assist the guy, who is about to pick her up, a kerfuffle ensued, my foot got stood on but Pat got off in one piece. Apart from the beginning and end, she loved it and celebrated with a champagne at the top.
Back home for siesta before passeggiata (especially in Italy or Italian-speaking areas this is a leisurely walk or stroll, taken in the evening for the purpose of socializing.) this evening. This time with Pat in tow. Aperol and Limencello spritz and watching people go by. Then ambling and browsing the many shops ended by dinner and a stroll home.
Todays main thing was to get a boat trip and go and see the Blue Grotto, this is the one thing that I wanted to do in Capri. This morning we awoke to high winds, which equate to rough seas. Pat wasn't keen on the grotto or b oat trip - so John and I went off to explore. Back to Anacapri on the bus, no queues and we remembered our masks. The guy at the bus stop said that Blue Grotto was closed today, so we explored Anacapri. We visited the Villa San Michele which was owned and built by this very cool dude Axel Munthe, a Swedish Author and Doctor. On his death he donated house and land to Sweden, it is now run as a museum.
The gardens are nothing to write home about but the location is probably the best view on Capri. EXQUISITE!
We then strolled around Anacapri, which was a lot larger than we initially thought. We went back to try the Blue Grotto, but no luck, it is closed for the day. I am not hopeful for tomorrow either as the winds are forecasted to be stronger tomorrow.
I have been virtually visiting the Blue Grotto - watch the video, it is pretty cool I think.
Another passagiatta last night, Pat absolutely loves it - this time we didn't venture too far as we overdid it the night before. So 2 hours cocktailing and watching people, meeting other travellers and hearing their tales. Dinner at Guisseppes - which seems to be the local treat as it is always full to the brim and he seems to know everyone who comes in.
Tomorrow we leave Capri to go to Positano.
Not sure I would recommend this one, I do not want to be too critical as John has done so much research to find a great hotel, that is suitable for his mum and us. This was his third choice after waiting 4 weeks for the booking to open on his first choice only to find they wanted a 4 night minimum.
The hotel is a small boutique hotel, so no hotel transfer. It has recently been refurbished but not done very well, every time we took a shower the place flooded. The taps were on crooked, the water out of the taps was a trickle. The room was massive and the views spectacular and the kindness of the staff could not be faulted. But then saying that Basil, Sybil and Manuel were also very nice and helpful!
John sees his mum to her room and I go with Manuel to our room which is up 3 half flights of stairs, he has to stop after 2 stairs and huff and puff at the weight of John's suitcase (ha ha - wait until he feels mine). As we get to the room there is an awkward pause (I think for a tip - but I have no cash), so I say can I go in? He says okay, do you want to go to the toilet? No, I just want to go to my room.
The room is huge, the bed is a super king and it has 2 x of the thinnest pillows, so I requested 2 more pillows. The pillows come up straight away and John says "ooooo what is that smell?" I can't smell a thing until I lie down on the bed later and the pillow reeks of vomit. That went out the door for an airing.
We have two generous balconies facing both views of Capri, you cannot fault the location - EXCEPT - it is on the main road to Anacapri and there is no pedestrian path. Just sticking your head out is a dangerous activity, if a bus is coming and there is an oncoming vehicle so they have to use all of the road, you will be decapitated. Imagine getting Pat out of there each time - you have to make a dash for it as the opposite side of the road has about 10cm breathing space. Really ridiculous, would not pass any hotel standard checks in Aus that is for sure.
I asked for 3 cups of Earl Grey tea, so we can have it on our balcony with Pat, so 3 earl grey tea bags come up and 3 x mugs half filled with hot water. I go to the kitchen to get some more hot water and the hotel kitchen is a room with a coffee machine, a microwave and some camping stoves. I think to myself - Mmmmm not sure breakfast will be much.
John meets Pat for Breakfast, Breakfast pit is served alfresco in the middle of mosquito heaven, you have to spray yourself otherwise you get eaten alive. John has to remind them that they have forgotten the milk for the cereal, the butter for the bread, the serving spoons for the fruit and the list goes on. Their omelettes were very good and the morning I ordered poached eggs, the camping stove ran out of gas, so that took 30 mins. Lucky there is no rush in Capri.
You think you should get a good coffee in Italy, well it is not guaranteed. On day 1 Basil made the coffee and it was fantastic, the best coffee since leaving Aus. Day 2 it was Manuel who made the coffee and I have no idea what went into it but it wasn't drinkable. We will stick to tea for the rest of the stay.
Although I would not choose to stay there again, I would definitely recommend the staff for kindness.
This is me sticking my camera out of the hotel gate.
That is it from Capri, now for more memories. Arrivederci.