Train to Churchill

From the map above, you can see where we need to get to. Why Churchill? Churchill, located on the southwestern shore of Hudson Bay in Manitoba, is a remote yet captivating destination known as the 'Polar Bear Capital of the World.' This small town, with a population of less than 1,000, draws visitors from around the globe for its unparalleled opportunities to witness polar bears in the wild, especially during the autumn migration. In addition to its famous wildlife, including beluga whales and various bird species, Churchill offers stunning views of the northern lights, a rich history tied to Indigenous cultures and Arctic exploration, and a unique sense of adventure that appeals to nature lovers and explorers alike.

It is a tough place to get to and can only be accessed by sea, rail, or plane!

Rail:
The train to Churchill operates twice a week from Winnipeg, Manitoba. The journey is a scenic, multi-day trip that spans about 1,700 kilometres (1,056 miles), taking approximately 48 hours. Operated by VIA Rail, this train service is a popular option for visitors looking to experience the remote beauty of northern Manitoba and is often preferred for its affordability compared to air travel. The train route also offers a unique way to see Canada's vast landscapes, including forests, tundra, and wildlife. 

Air:
Calm Air offers flights to Churchill from Winnipeg, typically operating three to four times per week.

Sea:
It is possible to reach Churchill by sea, but this is not a common or regular mode of transportation for most travelers. Churchill has a deep-water port on Hudson Bay, primarily used to ship grain and other goods. Occasionally, cruise ships or expedition vessels include Churchill as a stop, especially for Arctic or wildlife-focused cruises, but these are seasonal and limited. The Hudson Bay is typically ice-free from late July to early November, so any sea travel to Churchill is confined to that period. However, for most visitors, flights or trains remain the primary ways to reach Churchill.

We initially thought we would fly both ways, but after reading a review about the train being 'the best-kept secret,' we decided to embark on that adventure for at least one of the legs. So here we are—the train is expected to take two days and leaves Winnipeg Union Station at 12 PM, arriving sometime two days later in Churchill. There is no strict schedule; it could take two or three days, depending on the freight trains, which take priority. We have since learned that there is a strike in the US, which has slowed the demand for freight in Canada, leaving the railway free for the Rocky Mountaineer and the train to Churchill.

John has booked a hotel very close by, and the station is just a ten-minute walk, which would normally not be an issue. However, the new suitcase I bought has been a bit problematic. The zipper broke two or three weeks ago, so it doesn’t lock, but Jen and Neil loaned us both their suitcase bands, which is great because if the other zipper goes, we won’t be able to close the suitcase! The wheel has also broken, which means it no longer rolls on four wheels. Poor John has been hauling this stupid suitcase around, and after the trip to the station on the very bumpy, cracked pavement, the wheel is almost hanging off. So, we borrow tape from the station attendant and tape it up.

We check into the train and go for coffee and some lunch, as the food reviews of the train are not that great. We have heaps of Netflix and Prime shows downloaded, along with plenty of books since there is no Wi-Fi—two days of downtime! We get shown to our cabins; they are small, but the beds seem bigger than those on the Indian Pacific. During the day, there are two lounge chairs that convert into two beds.

The station building is gorgeous. Sue is very worried about the food situation, so we go on the hunt for a supermarket. She finds a convenience store, but when we get there, it has nothing fresh—just microwaved food! We are all a bit disappointed. During the checking and boarding time, we have about two hours, so we head to the closest coffee shop in a food court area, which has plenty of options for food and train snacks. Here are our bags to take on the train—yes, there are only three of us!

On board the train, Sue discovers that she hasn't booked a cabin but a bed, so she is sleeping in the hallway (which converts into a bed). We’re all a bit concerned about how that is going to work out. Our cabin is nothing unusual; having experienced the Indian Pacific and considering this trip is a fifth of the price, we do not have high expectations.

Off we go to explore! There is a lounge, a dining room, and a glass-roofed car, which is where we spent most of our time. I found it very comfortable. We had already bought lunch, so no train lunch for us. Dinner was fine; I had a microwaved mac 'n cheese, which was actually delicious, and John had chicken teriyaki, which was good.

There was some concern—and, in my eyes, a bit of panic—from John and Sue about a two-day train trip with no internet, Wi-Fi, books, or games. What would we do? In Sue's defence, she argued that this was simply being prepared. However, we actually had cellular reception for a good 50% of the trip. I mention this because, before coming on this adventure, I downloaded an app called Aurora, which provides aurora predictions for your location. I received a notification saying, 'If the skies are clear, you will see the aurora tonight.' Ooh, that is very exciting!

The views are filled with farmland, with plenty of grain, grain silos, and hay. As the sun sets, all the excitement builds for the aurora. I had heard that aurora photos look much better than they appear to the naked eye, so I warned Sue and John about this. Cameras can use longer exposure times, allowing them to gather more light over time, which means even faint auroral activity can be captured and appear more intense. Additionally, modern digital cameras have sensors that are more sensitive to light than the human eye, especially in low-light conditions, enabling them to capture colors and details that may go unnoticed. The human eye also has limitations in detecting certain colors in low light, while cameras can capture a broader spectrum of colors and enhance subtle hues.

Long exposure requires a tripod and a super still lens, but we are in a moving train. We ask the train attendants to switch off the lights in the glass dome car, and we can start to see a milky hue. So, I try to photograph it, and this is what it looked like.

The specks are not stars but dirt on the window. Ooh, this is getting exciting, but there’s not much to see yet. Our necks are getting a bit sore from the angles we’re looking at. I put my jacket over my head to block out the light, and I can see the aurora getting bigger and more pronounced. So, I shoot a few more snaps.

It's getting better and better, and then it just gets amazing—the colours come out, and the aurora dances in the sky, changing shape and hue as it flirts with the Earth's magnetic fields. 

An aurora is caused by the interaction between charged particles from the sun and the Earth's magnetic field and atmosphere. The sun continuously emits a stream of charged particles known as solar wind, which consists primarily of electrons and protons. As these particles approach Earth, they encounter its magnetic field, forming the magnetosphere that protects the planet from most solar wind particles while allowing some to enter, particularly near the polar regions. When these solar wind particles collide with gases in the Earth's atmosphere, mainly oxygen and nitrogen, they transfer energy to these atoms and molecules, causing them to emit light as they return to their normal state. The color of the aurora varies depending on the type of gas involved and the altitude of the collisions; for instance, oxygen at higher altitudes can produce red and green hues, while nitrogen can create blue or purple colors.

The photos aren’t that great, as I mentioned; you require a long exposure and a still lens, and I had a dirty window and a moving train. But you can get the gist of the scene. The colors were there but not as dramatic as the photos suggest. A celebratory nightcap and bed it was. John is in the top bunk, which is rather awkward. I was worried about the 180 cm long mattress and the fact that he is a back sleeper; I had visions of him having to bend his knees, but none of that was the case. Every time he turned over, I thought he had fallen out of bed. I am very pleased to report that there have been no toiletry bag incidents - like on the Indian Pacific trip! I developed a sore throat during the aurora excitement, and that night I progressively got worse, managing only about 2 hours of sleep on top of a cold—I felt awful the next day. We are still getting intermittent internet reception, so we played a few games of Bananagrams and Scrabble (the games that Sue has lugged around) to pass the time on this "boring" train trip.

I am not feeling well, so it’s head down for me, which means not that many photos. The scenery is changing, with more water and lakes. We arrive in Thompson, where there is a scheduled 5-hour stop, but due to lateness, it’s only a 3-hour stop. All I can say is thank goodness; I thought it was a 'shithole.' Okay—I wasn’t feeling well, we couldn’t find a place to eat, and did I mention I wasn’t feeling well? I didn’t feel safe either, so I stuck very close to John. A kind gentleman, whom we didn’t trust, told us about a nice restaurant. He was spot on, and we went there for lunch. Back on the train, and off we go! I get another alert about the aurora—WHAT? Two nights in a row! I’m doing my very best to stay up for it, but I cannot, so off to bed early just as the aurora was forming.

I had a great sleep, feeling heaps better, and John wakes me up and says we are getting into Churchill in 30 minutes. So, up we get, pack up, and in a jiffy we are there. We have made it! We have new friends; Sue's sleeping arrangements were fine, and she made lots of new roommates. All in all, it’s a journey well worth making, in my opinion. We say goodbye to our train friends, knowing full well that we will see them around town.

Churchill and the polar bears, here we come!!!!