Ketchikan

Another delicious dinner with great company. Then Manuel and the other wait staff surprised us with an impromptu, choreographed dance to the Macarena. It was so good and upbeat—a great way to end dinner. Afterward, we went to the Centrum, located on the same floor, and listened to 50s and 60s rock 'n roll. Jen, Neil, and Suzie got up to dance while the rest of us sipped our cocktails. Off to bed, as we have a full day ahead of us tomorrow.

When we got to the room, I checked the ocean—everything seemed fine. But by the time we got ready for bed and I laid my head on the pillow, the room started moving up and down. I thought to myself, 'I didn’t drink that much.' I checked with John, and he said the bed was moving for him too. 'Phew, it’s not just me!'

The boat was seriously rocking—the bottles in the fridge were rolling around, so John got up to stop them. He shoved a towel in to keep them from moving. Back to bed, but then the door started rattling! Up he got again and fixed it with another towel. Back to bed, and a few seconds later, the bottles in the fridge came loose again. John got up once more, wedging Coke cans with the milk bottles and adding another towel. Finally, we got back into bed as the ship rocked up and down, side to side, and we drifted off to sleep.

After listening to rock and roll songs from the 50s and 60s, and a bit of dancing from Jen, Neil, and Sue, it was time for bed. When we arrived at the cabin, everything was calm. But as soon as my head hit the pillow, I thought to myself, 'I only had two cocktails—why is my head spinning, or is the bed moving?' I asked John if the bed was moving for him, and he said yes, which was a relief.

The motion was very up and down, side to side, and the bottles in the fridge started rolling around. John sorted that out with some towels and got back into bed. Then the door started rattling, so John got out of bed again to fix that. Once more back in bed, but the bottles in the fridge started moving again, so he wedged them in with the milk and another towel. Finally, peace at last—we fell asleep to the rocking of the ship.

We wake up to another gorgeous day in Alaska—what is going on? After meeting for breakfast, we get ready for a private tour of Ketchikan later, so John and I decide to take a stroll into town. We’re first greeted by what I thought was a totem pole, but it turned out to be an eagle’s bum! The front of the statue (pictured below) is much better.

There’s also a picture of a rain gauge below, showing the incredible amount of rainfall they get each year in Ketchikan. Their record was broken with 4.80 meters of rain—that’s a massive amount of water! No wonder the place is so green.

The town is a lot larger than we expected, very quaint.  Again heaps of jewellery shops.

The tour cannot take the scooter, so Nicky Lauda is on foot today.  Our guide is Sid (short for Sidney) who is a historian in Native American Culture, what an interesting lass she was.  Everything she told us was so interesting - the short version is the same as the rest of the world, the whites came in and took the land away from the Native Americans, banned them from congregating (they got thrown in jail if a few friends were standing together in the street).  Speaking of their native language in public was prohibited, their cultural traditions banned or removed.  This is slowly being rectified, but like the rest of the world - very slowly.

The tour is private so we can do what we want really.  Ketchikan, has a relatively small road network due to its geography and island location. The town is situated on Revillagigedo Island, which is part of the Tongass National Forest. There are only about 48 km (30 miles) of paved roads in and around Ketchikan. Most of the roads run parallel to the coastline, and there's no road connection to the mainland, so all travel to and from Ketchikan is by boat or plane.  We travelled to each end on our tour.  Ideally we wanted to see bears.  The bears have gone with the salmon run at its end.  Guess what - first wildlife sighting is a bear.  We then went to Picnic Lunch Creek, which is a small stream located in Tongass National Forest at the end of the paved road. It runs through the lush, temperate rainforest typical of the region and is known for its scenic surroundings, including towering trees, moss-covered rocks, and ferns. The creek is part of the larger network of water bodies in the area and feeds into the surrounding rivers and streams, which are often habitats for salmon and other wildlife.

The name "Picnic Lunch Creek" suggests that it might have been a popular spot for visitors or locals to stop and enjoy a meal amidst the natural beauty, with lots of foraging opportunities. 

I explained to Sid that Mum couldn't walk very far, and she said it was only a few steps. Well, poor Mum—there were a lot of steps, and big ones at that—it was all downhill. We were five steps from the bottom when Mum wanted to stop. I think she was already thinking, 'How the hell am I going to get back to the bus?!*$'

Long story short, Mum's exercise ring on her Apple Watch has never been closed, but today it did—so cheers to you, Mum! On the way back up the hill, I was pushing Mum from behind, which was risky after seeing the baked beans she had for breakfast. Jen was at the front, talking her through the impending climb.

RESPECT, Mum—well done.  See the photos of the forest below.

With Mum safely back at the bus, we venture to the other side of the lake.  second stop buggies beach, where learn about the geoduck (pronounced gooey duck), this is a phallic looking clam.  Google it.... People actually eat this.

The beach is shale, not your regular Aussie beach.  But the sun is shining, Sid found a snail shell, some kelp and a lady slipper.  First the Kelp, this is a strand of Kelp that Jen is playing with.  Kelp is an important part of the marine ecosystem around Ketchikan. The waters off the coast of Ketchikan are home to extensive kelp forests, primarily consisting of bull kelp and giant kelp, which thrive in the nutrient-rich waters of the Pacific Ocean. It is light, rubbery and hollow.

The sea lady slipper refers to a type of marine creature, commonly called the cushion star or lady slipper sea star. Also a very weird looking creature and eaten by the locals.

Then we went to a stream to see the salmon run and see if we could see any bears, but alas - just seagulls.  Lots of seals, eagles and canadian geese on the way back.  We went to the other end of the 48km road, passing a waterfall and then back home via the salmon ladder.  The salmon ladder is a crucial structure designed to facilitate the migration of salmon and other fish species upstream to their spawning grounds.  You cannot believe what these guys have to forgo to procreate!  They swim upstream and only 1 out of 100 makes it.  If they successfully spawn they go and die anyway.

Look closely, you can see the salmon jumping. Yes you have to look very closely but you can see them above.

The story of the street names "married man's trail" is that is the street that leads to Creek Street which is where Madame Dolly managed her many houses of whores til it was outlawed and then she only managed one or two houses when it was illegal.  Madame Dolly, whose real name was Dolly Dyer, is a historical figure from Ketchikan, Alaska, remembered for her prominent role in the town's early 20th-century brothel scene. Arriving in Ketchikan during the late 1890s, Dolly quickly became a well-known personality in the local community. She operated one of the town's most famous brothels, which was recognized for its high standards and relatively safe environment compared to other establishments of its kind during that era.

Despite the nature of her business, Madame Dolly was regarded as a significant part of Ketchikan’s social fabric. She hosted gatherings and parties, supporting local events and blending into the community. Known as a savvy businesswoman, she managed her brothel with a focus on cleanliness and the well-being of her workers, earning respect from her peers and the locals alike. Many stories highlight her interactions with fishermen, miners, and businessmen, illustrating how she navigated the complexities of life in a bustling frontier town.

As social norms began to shift and many brothels were forced to close, Madame Dolly's establishment became a relic of a bygone era. However, her story is often recounted as part of Ketchikan's rich history, emphasizing the unique challenges and realities of that time. Today, Madame Dolly's legacy lives on through historical accounts and local lore, capturing the interest of historians and tourists eager to learn about the intriguing aspects of Ketchikan's past. Her life and business reflect the intricate social dynamics of early Alaskan towns, making her a memorable character in the community's cultural tapestry.

The sun is still shining and we return to the ship for our departure back to Vancouver.  Bye bye Alaska, thanks for having us.