Ningaloo

Swimming with the Whale Sharks

This has certainly been on my bucket list since I learned to Scuba dive some 30 odd years ago and learned about these fascinating creatures.

1. They are the largest fish in the sea

2. They are a shark and not a whale (i.e. Fish and not Mammal)

3. They grow up to 12m long

4. They have 3000 teeth but they are so small they feel like sand paper

5. Whilst their mouths are large and can fit a person it, their throats are the size of a fist  - so they couldnt swallow you.

6. They are loners and travel by themselves

7. Mainly males are sighted, this is believed to be because the females give birth in remote parts and of the world to protect young until they are big enough.

8. One female was opened up and they found embryos of varying gestation periods

9. Not much is known about this fish.

John and I wanted to do something special for our 20th Wedding Anniversary which is this year in May, this is what we settled on.  Swimming with the Whale Sharks in Western Australia.  It is thought that whale shark movement patterns are linked with spawning of coral and plankton blooms, which probably explains the annual appearance of whale sharks to Ningaloo Reef following the mass spawning of coral each year in these waters. Jen and Neil celebrating their 35th Wedding Anniversary next year - came on the trip with us.

1. Ningaloo Reef is home to over 450 different species of marine life, including whale sharks, large pelagic fish such as tuna and billfish, humpback whales, dolphins, manta rays, dugong, and turtles (including green, loggerhead, and hawksbill turtles). The Reef is also home to 250 different species of coral, representing over 50% of the Indian Ocean’s entire coral life.

2. Every year, hundreds of whale sharks, the world’s largest known fish, make their way to the peaceful waters of Ningaloo in their quest for food. 

3. Up to 40,000 humpback whales grace Ningaloo’s pristine waters between June to late October as they make their annual migratory journey north from the Antarctic for mating and calving.

4. The name ‘Ningaloo’ comes from the Aboriginal Wajarri language word meaning promontory, deep water, or high land jutting into the sea. The Yamatji peoples of the Baying and Yinigudura clans have inhabited the area for over 30,000 years.

5. The Ningaloo Marine Park was established in 1987 and extended in 2004 to cover the entire reef. It’s World Heritage status was negotiated in 2011, with site boundaries extended to include Ningaloo Marine Park, the Muiron Islands, Jurabi Coastal Park, Bundegi Coastal Park, Cape Range National Park, and the Learmonth Air Weapons Range.

6. The Ningaloo Coast is recognised as one of the most important nesting grounds in the world for green and loggerhead turtles. Female turtles make their journey through the reef to lay their clutches of eggs on shore annually between November and March.

7. Ningaloo Reef is one of only two coral reefs in the world that have formed on the western side of a continent!

8. The water temperature at Ningaloo Reef is a balmy 22°C – 26 °C depending on the season, meaning you can enjoy swimming, snorkeling and scuba adventures in temperate conditions all year round! Which Jen absolutely loved.

9. Ningaloo Reef is the world's largest fringing reef, and one of the longest near-shore reef systems in the world. Stretching 300km from Carnarvon's Red Bluff to the Muiron Islands in the north and Exmouth Gulf's Bundegi Beach in the east, Ningaloo Reef is regarded as one of the world's last great ocean paradises.

Ningaloo is located near Exmouth, Western Australia and the closest airport is Learmonth which is also a Defence base. 1200km from Perth, the drive takes a little longer.  The flight was an easy two hours and we were all like kids watching something on our devices, John reading a book about a guy who loses his memory in the middle of a bitter divorce.  We arrive, and step out of the plan and John and I think phew its hot and sticky and Jens little face lights up and she says "oh isnt this lovely, its so warm".

There is one taxi in town and we didnt book it, so onto the shuttle bus to the hotel.  We are staying in Mantaray Resort, the rooms are lovely and it is small.  It doesnt seem busy but in the late afternoon people seem to crawl out of the woodwork and come for a dip.

I am a little nervous as all the people that I have told about the trip have said, are you only allowing 1 day for the swim?  I assumed that it was a definite that we would see the Whale Sharks, but apparently not.  So it is with trepidation that I view the weather forecast, clear and beautiful.  Tick!  As for seeing a Whale Shark, well that is up to them.  The receptionist told us (after our swim) that she had been out the day before and not seen anything.  The Captain of our boat shook his head when he heard that I had allowed one day for the swim.  He said some days we can bob out here for 6 hours and get 1 swim with a Whale Shark.  Ooops. Anyone reading this - allow a few more days.

I am pleased to say that we saw more Whale Sharks than we could swim with.  Planes spotted 40 and we had the opportunity to swim with 5.  So damn lucky.

The day starts with the bus ride of 30 minutes to the boat ramp, you pass the American Naval base, the American VLF (very low frequency) tower station - these are used to transmitted messages between submarines.  Then you take a tender out to the boat.  Out tender was manned by Ken the Pirate.

Once onboard, the captain does a safety briefing, there is a roll call and off we go.  The Ningaloo Reef is a fringe reef so close to shore, we have a little snorkle to get used to the equipment, make any changes before the big swim.  The Megafauna is on the other side of the reef in much deeper water.  John learned to swim as an adult and has snorkelled once before - he is really doing this for me.  So I am hoping and praying he is okay with it all.  We have let the guides know and they are super supportive and always keeping an eye out.  

Once we get Johns snorkel sorted, he jumps in the water with a noodle, and he gets his head in the water and what I later find out a good breathing rythym.  Because there was no stopping him, he would not lift his head out the water, just head down and snorkel.

The snorkelling was fabulous, the reef is shallow but not as shallow as the Great barrier Reef where you can bash into the coral. 

Everyone is happy with equipment, we get the "coeee" to come back in.  Remember John is head down, in his rythmn he would have swum to Papua New Guinea if he didnt have his Shazzy compass.  So I cannot get him to look up so I have to pull and drag him in the direction of the boat.  I was so proud of John, he embraced the whole thing, so confident he wanted to ditch the noodle for the big swim.  By the way, with hindsight and our recommendation to anyone doing this swim is to take the noodle.  The noodle saves your energy and gives you more time with the Whale Sharks.

Back on board we head out to the outer reef which is where the spotter planes are looking for our big friends.  As soon as we get there we get the instructions to suit up and Go, Go, Go - it is so exciting.

I had high expectations, this is something I have wanted to do for about 35 years.  I am sooooo excited, but nervous for John too.  In we go, the operation is very slick.  They drop you ahead of the Whale shark so that you catch it as it is coming towards you and then you can swim with it until it outswims you - after all this is what they do for a living.  They sometimes get spooked and dive, but for most of the time they just swim on by.

There are only 10 people allowed in at one time and you swim in single file - well at least you are supposed to!  They do move quite fast, so you have to swim quite quickly to keep up.  They are so majestic, their freckled bodies and grace that they swim with is just superb.  The water is so warm, probably the same temperature as a bath - Jen is in heaven.  As group 1 finish their swim, the next group get a turn and so on.  Really slick operation.  In total the spotter planes spotted 40 Whales Sharks and we find out later a Great White!  Yes a Great White, I presume they would have warned us had it been in harms way.  

I got tired in the first swim, you just put your hand up and the Pirate comes and fetches you.  He lifts you out of the water as if you were a feather.  As John was getting into the boat, I never got out of the way of this fin - so got side swiped by the fin.

The next swim was much better - you know what is happening and that you have to swim fast at the beginning.  It was AWESOME.

After the swim, we have lunch.  Neil was vomiting, we think he had swallowed too much sea water and John feeling sea sick - but they both recovered in time to enjoy the lovely spread of chicken and salads.  The weather is so warm, you dont even need a towel to dry off.  We then drive to the inner reef for more snorkelling.  You think that you would be a bid snorkelled out but there is so much to sea.  There are a lot of fish only found ont he Ningaloo reef, the waters so calm and warm that you can hang around and look into all the coral nooks and crannies.  Just the best!

BEST DAY EVER!

After the snorkel, which you can take as much time as you want - we never felt like we were rushed, the crew genuinely wanted us to have the best time.   John, Jen, and I were up on the top deck with Captain Brad, looking for sharks and turtles, etc.  You do see a lot, we saw a massive turtle, and a couple of Sting Rays - just glorious.  I then heat John and Jen giggling, apparently, John stood up and Jen noticed that she could see his bum.  His swimming trunks were slipt from the waist to the crotch.  He must have walked up the ladder giving everyone a good view.  Poor John, we were laughing so much.  He then went to change and came back upstairs having forgotten to do up his fly.

We swam with Ningaloo Blue Dive - which we all highly recommend.  We could not fault a thing, so thanks. 

Below is a short 8 minute video of our 6 hour experience. Fun, Fun, Fun - hope you enjoy it.