Cambodia

Siem Reap — Day 1 & 2

A short 45-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City saw us bid farewell to Jen and Neil, who were making their way home with lots of gifts for the family via Singapore. It was sad to see them go but we still have one more exciting stop to make — Cambodia, and Siem Reap to be specific. We have moved from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City to a fairly deserted Siem Reap. Tourism is incredibly important to Cambodia’s economy, providing a huge source of employment and income, particularly around the magnificent Angkor Wat. However, with the recent Iran tensions and flow-on disruptions through major Middle Eastern aviation hubs such as the United Arab Emirates, visitor numbers have again taken a knock. While we are blessed with uncrowded temples — a rare privilege — it is impossible not to feel for the Cambodian people whose livelihoods depend so heavily on a steady stream of travellers.

We were met at the airport with refreshing ice towels and a basket of drinks of our choice — such a lovely welcome. The drive to the hotel is about an hour, and the abundance of agriculture other than rice is a stark contrast from Vietnam. Cashew nut plantations line the highway, and our driver kindly stops so we can take a closer look. (First photo below is the cashew fruit with the nut still attached — yes, the fruit is edible!)

Cashews are a fascinating crop and an important export for Cambodia. The trees usually flower in the dry season, typically between November and January, producing delicate pink-yellow blossoms. After pollination, the cashew apple (the fleshy fruit) develops first, with the familiar kidney-shaped nut growing externally at the bottom — one of the few nuts in the world that grows outside the fruit. Harvesting normally takes place from February through April when the apples fall naturally to the ground. The nuts are then carefully removed and roasted to eliminate the naturally occurring toxic shell oil before processing. It is quite a labour-intensive crop, which makes seeing the plantations up close even more interesting.

Our accommodation for the next four days is Waka Villas, a small boutique hideaway in Siem Reap. It is an absolute treat — a very spacious villa complete with our own private pool. Ooo la la… positively luxurious!

We are both really tired. John grabs some lunch and, after a refreshing swim in our private pool, we are finally starting to feel human again. I indulge in an energising foot massage — oh my goodness, the best foot massage EVER!

Dinner is at the hotel, followed by the mandatory viewing of Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, as parts of it were filmed here in Siem Reap. We watch Lara strutting her stuff (and to our surprise, Daniel Craig making an appearance), which feels very fitting given our surroundings.

A wonderful night’s sleep follows in our massive bed.

This morning we are being picked up at 8am by our guide Rain, who will be showing us around Siem Reap for the next three days. Today we are off to see three temples (with unpronounceable names!) and a floating village. The temperature at 8:30am is already 30ºC. John has very sensibly opted for an air-conditioned van rather than a trendy tuk tuk.

First stop is to buy tickets and as we are ushered to the front of the queue - you realise the value of the guide!  At the ticket place there is a beautiful but disused building - it was a museum - some photos below.

The first temple we visit is Preah Ko, one of the earliest temples in the Angkor region and built well before Angkor Wat. It was constructed in 879 AD by King Indravarman I, who established this area as one of the first capitals of the Khmer Empire. The temple had both a religious and deeply personal purpose — it was built to honour the king’s ancestors while also serving as a place of Hindu worship.

At the front stand the three principal towers: the central tower is dedicated to the king’s father, with the towers on either side honouring his paternal grandfather and another male ancestor. Behind them are three more towers dedicated to the female members of the royal family — including the king’s mother and grandmother. It is essentially a beautifully carved stone family tribute set within a sacred complex.

The temple shows strong Hindu influence, particularly the worship of Shiva, one of the three principal Hindu deities (along with Brahma and Vishnu). Preah Ko was specifically dedicated to Shiva, and many of the carvings and symbolic elements reflect Shaivite worship. Even today, the intricate brickwork, guardian statues, and delicate carvings give a fascinating glimpse into the very early days of the Khmer Empire — and the extraordinary temple-building legacy that would eventually culminate in Angkor Wat.

Far out it is hot....

Next we visit Bakong, the grand temple that sits between Preah Ko and Prasat Prei Monti, and it is noticeably higher — both in elevation and in importance. By now it is a sweltering 34º and we are both absolutely melting.

Bakong was built in 881 AD by King Indravarman I and is considered the first true temple mountain of the Khmer Empire. Unlike the more intimate Preah Ko, this one was designed to impress. The stepped pyramid structure represents Mount Meru — the sacred mountain at the centre of the Hindu universe — and climbing it definitely gets the heart rate up in the heat.

Rain explains that in Khmer temple design, height often reflected status, purity, and closeness to the gods. The higher the structure, the more spiritually significant the person or deity being honoured. Standing at the top, even through the sweat, the views across the surrounding countryside are beautiful and peaceful.

What makes Bakong particularly special is its setting. The temple is surrounded by wide moats, palm trees, and lush greenery, giving it a tranquil, almost timeless feel. The waterways here are part of the ancient hydraulic system that once supported the Angkor civilisation — and, interestingly, these same water networks eventually feed toward the great lake system we will visit later with the floating village (though at this stage we have no idea what still lies ahead).

Despite the heat, it is one of those places that makes you pause — grand, serene, and steeped in over a thousand years of history.

Back to the airconditioned van and iced towels.

Next stop is Lolei. On the way we pass through small villages dotted with colourful roadside stalls selling fruit, vegetables, and the usual tourist trinkets. Tuk tuks hum steadily along the road, and we spot all manner of creative transport — including trailers improbably pulled by small motorbikes. Life here feels industrious and wonderfully local.

Lolei itself is one of the earliest temples of the Roluos group and was built in 893 AD by King Yasovarman I, the son of Indravarman I. Originally, the temple stood on an island in the middle of a large man-made reservoir (baray), symbolising the cosmic ocean surrounding Mount Meru in Hindu cosmology. Today the water is long gone, but the temple’s elevated position still hints at its former island setting.

The temple consists of four brick towers set on a raised platform, dedicated to the king’s ancestors — very much continuing the strong tradition of honouring royal lineage that we first saw at Preah Ko. The intricate stucco carvings and false doors, although weathered by time, still show the elegance of early Khmer craftsmanship.

Adding to the atmosphere, it is wedding season, and the gentle rhythmic chanting of monks drifts across the temple grounds. The sound gives the whole place a deeply spiritual feel — one of those moments where history, religion, and everyday Cambodian life beautifully overlap.

Before embarking on our Tonlé Sap adventure, we made a brief stop to buy our boat tickets, treat ourselves to a well-earned Magnum ice cream, and enjoy a very clean loo break — always a bonus when you’re in the Cambodian heat! The surrounding countryside was a stunning throwback to Vietnam, with emerald green rice paddies stretching out on either side, fed by the intricate waterways that sustain them. These paddies rely on the seasonal flooding from Tonlé Sap, which expands dramatically in the wet season, sometimes increasing the lake’s area from about 2,500 km² in the dry season to over 16,000 km² at its peak, creating vital nutrient-rich water for agriculture and fishing.

Boarding our boat, we were immediately immersed in the bustling waterways. Families navigated narrow channels in wooden boats, pulling in nets heavy with fish, tossing them with practiced skill, and shouting directions to each other over the hum of diesel engines. Despite the seeming chaos, there was a rhythm — propellers lifted to avoid splashing, nets were carefully respected, and the locals moved with a confidence born of generations living on the water. Houses on stilts loomed over us; what appeared as modest single-story homes during the wet season revealed up to four stories in height in the dry months, a dramatic visual reminder of how the lake swells and recedes each year. Tonlé Sap is Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, home to more than 300 floating villages, and supports a huge proportion of Cambodia’s inland fish catch, making it a lifeline for thousands of families. Further out, the lake opened into a vast expanse, dotted with mangroves, floating vegetation, and small islands, teeming with birds, fish, and human communities working in synchrony with the rhythms of the water. The mix of industrious activity, natural beauty, and ever-changing scenery made it impossible to know where to focus first — a true sensory feast that left us awe-struck.

As we drifted along, I felt a complex mixture of emotions. I felt sombre, witnessing the tough lives of people who live and work on these waters day in, day out, exposed to sun, rain, and the unrelenting challenges of subsistence life. I felt lucky, grateful for the comforts of our Lower North Shore existence, our air-conditioned van, and our luxury hotels. I felt very hot, sticky and tired from the heat and humidity, yet utterly humbled by the resilience, skill, and resourcefulness of the families whose livelihoods are bound to the ebb and flow of Tonlé Sap. Life here is hard, demanding, and precarious, and I left with a renewed sense of gratitude and awe at the strength of those who call this incredible, ever-changing lake their home.

Now for the video, best viewed with volume to experience the "serenity.  Its only a minute long.

Then it’s more frozen towels, more water to stave off the heat, and finally home for a swim and a well-earned rest. The cool water was absolute heaven after the sweltering boat ride, washing away the dust, sweat, and diesel smells of the river. Resting on what we now call the Shaz Lounge, I let my mind wander back over the villages, the nets, the towering stilted homes, and the people whose lives are so intricately tied to the lake. A little slice of calm after a day of awe, wonder, and a reminder of how lucky we really are.

Day 3 - Angkor Wat

Yesterday we were up very early to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. Picked up at 5:20 am (quite a shock to our holiday lie-ins) but life is for living and experiencing different things, so it was off to bed relatively early and up in time for our pickup by Rain and the new driver.

We arrived at Angkor Wat while it was still bathed in darkness. It was busy, which actually restored my faith in Cambodian tourism numbers. The optimum photo — the one everyone is hoping for — is the sun rising directly above the temple towers and reflecting perfectly in the pool in front. Unfortunately it is quite a small window for the perfect picture and the clouds weren’t entirely cooperative, but it was still a lovely experience watching the sky slowly lighten and the famous silhouette appear out of the darkness.

To avoid the crowds we slipped away for our “breakfast box” — croissants and cinnamon scrolls — while John bravely attempted a coffee. Fortified, we then returned to explore Angkor Wat itself, which is exactly like the pictures you’ve seen, only far more impressive when you are standing right in front of it.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world and was built in the early 12th century by the Khmer king Suryavarman II as the state temple of his capital, Angkor. Unlike many temples in the region that were dedicated to Buddha, Angkor Wat was originally built as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu. Over time it gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple, which is why today you see both Hindu carvings and Buddhist statues throughout the complex. The temple is designed to represent Mount Meru, the sacred mountain believed in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology to be the centre of the universe. Its five iconic towers symbolise the peaks of that mythical mountain.

The walls are covered with kilometres of incredibly detailed bas-reliefs depicting mythology, battles, and scenes from everyday life of the Khmer Empire. Considering this was all carved by hand over 900 years ago, it really is extraordinary.

There are signs everywhere warning about monkey attacks, although none were around when we visited — I suspect they were still sleeping in after their own sunrise duties. What we did have to tackle, however, was the climb up to the upper towers. King Suryavarman must have been a very important king because the staircase to reach the top is incredibly steep — almost ladder-like. The idea was symbolic: the closer you climbed towards the heavens and the gods, the more difficult the journey became.

Needless to say, by the time we reached the top in the already rising heat, we were both very proud and very sweaty, but the views across the ancient temple complex made it well worth the effort.

I think until you have witnessed the kilometres of carved stone at Angkor Wat it almost beggars belief the dedication, craftsmanship and sheer time it must have taken to build these temples. Every wall, gallery and column seems to be covered in intricate carvings telling stories of gods, battles and daily life. When you stop and think that all of this was created during the reign of Suryavarman II in the 12th century, it becomes even more astonishing. There were no cranes, no motorised transport and no modern machinery — just thousands of workers, skilled artisans and an enormous amount of sweat and labour, carving and placing each sandstone block by hand to create what still stands today as the largest religious monument in the world.

Next stop is Bayon Temple, built in the late 12th century and sitting at the very centre of Angkor Thom. While Angkor Wat is the most famous temple in the region, it is actually only one part of a vast archaeological area known as Angkor Archaeological Park, which covers more than 400 square kilometres and contains the remains of capitals, temples, reservoirs and ancient roads of the powerful Khmer Empire.

Bayon was built by the great Khmer king Jayavarman VII and is very different from Angkor Wat. Instead of long corridors and symmetrical courtyards, Bayon feels almost like a maze. What makes it truly extraordinary are the giant stone towers, each carved with enormous smiling faces looking out in all directions. There are around 200 of these serene faces throughout the temple, believed to represent either the king himself or the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, a figure of compassion in Mahayana Buddhism, which was the dominant religion during Jayavarman VII’s reign.

The Angkor region contains so many temples because between the 9th and 15th centuries it was the centre of the Khmer Empire, one of the most powerful civilisations in Southeast Asia. Each king built new temples both as state temples and as spiritual monuments, often dedicated either to Hindu gods such as Shiva or Vishnu, or later to Buddhist beliefs. These temples also served as political statements — a way for each ruler to demonstrate power, devotion and legitimacy.

The layout of the Angkor area reflects this long history. Angkor Wat lies slightly to the south, surrounded by its enormous moat and outer walls. A few kilometres north sits Angkor Thom, the last great capital city, entered through massive gates guarded by rows of stone figures. At its centre stands Bayon Temple, while scattered through the surrounding forests are dozens more temples such as Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Preah Khan, each with its own story and purpose.

Standing among the stone towers of Bayon, with those mysterious smiling faces watching from every direction, you really begin to appreciate just how vast and sophisticated this ancient civilisation must have been. It is not just one temple — it is an entire lost city spread across the jungle.

The monkeys are now out and about and seem to mind their own business. One became curious when he heard the crinkle of my plastic water bottle as I took a sip. He wandered over to investigate, clearly hoping for something more exciting, realised it was only water, gave me a look of complete disinterest and went back to scratching himself.

I don’t think I have ever climbed so many steps. I thought Vietnam had its fair share, but this is next level — steep, ladder-like staircases everywhere, all in 30ºC heat. The ancient Khmer kings clearly didn’t design their temples with middle-aged tourists in mind! By this stage I am absolutely dripping and wondering how on earth the workers managed to haul all those stones up here centuries ago.

At the moment, if I am being completely honest, the temples are starting to feel a little “same same but different” — another king, another temple, another monument to honour himself. Of course each one has its own story and style, but when you are climbing endless steps in the heat it can feel a bit like the Khmer version of keeping up with the Joneses — each king trying to outdo the last with a bigger, grander temple. Thankfully our guide keeps pointing out the details and history that make each place unique, otherwise we might just collapse in a sweaty heap and call it a day!

We still had another three temples to visit and, you guessed it, more stairs to climb. By this stage I was exhausted and, if I’m being completely honest, a little templed out. My legs had done their fair share of climbing and my brain was struggling to absorb any more ancient history in the sweltering heat. I decided I needed to recover before our 2pm massage appointment — priorities!

So it was back to our villa for a well-earned siesta and a cool down before heading to the spa. Once again the massage was exceptional. My spa partner did have a few bouts of snoring — clearly reaching a level of relaxation the rest of us can only aspire to — but I believe he enjoyed the full 90 minutes nonetheless.

Honestly, this is the life. A 90-minute massage at a high-end spa costing USD $60… B A R G A I N.

Day 4 - Ta Prohm 

Our last day in Cambodia before the long trek home. Because I was a bit of a Debbie Downer about the temples yesterday, John very kindly streamlined today’s temple itinerary. His plan was to visit temples that were different from those we saw yesterday — so different different… but still temples!

We were picked up at 8am after a massive overnight storm which had cooled things down slightly. Today’s highlight was the temple made famous in the Lara Croft: Tomb Raider film — a place John was particularly excited to see because of the enormous trees growing through the ruins. The temple is Ta Prohm, one of the most atmospheric temples in the entire Angkor Archaeological Park complex.

Ta Prohm was built in 1186 by the powerful Khmer king Jayavarman VII, the same ruler responsible for many of the great monuments around Angkor. Unlike many other temples in the region that have been heavily restored, Ta Prohm was deliberately left much as it was when explorers rediscovered it in the jungle. The idea was to preserve the incredible sight of nature reclaiming the ancient stone structures, giving visitors a glimpse of what early explorers must have experienced when they first stumbled upon these ruins centuries ago.

And what a sight it is. Massive trees seem to be swallowing the temple whole. The most famous are the giant silk-cotton trees and strangler figs, whose enormous roots cascade down the walls like giant wooden tentacles. Over hundreds of years the roots have wrapped themselves around doorways, towers and courtyards, gripping the stone blocks and in some cases slowly pulling them apart. It creates an almost surreal scene — part ancient temple, part jungle — as if the forest and the temple have been locked in a slow battle for centuries.

Walking through Ta Prohm truly feels like stepping onto a movie set or into a lost world. Sunlight filters through the jungle canopy, tree roots snake over ancient carvings, and you half expect Lara Croft to swing around the corner at any moment. It is one of those places where history and nature collide in the most spectacular way — and thankfully, a temple that feels completely different from the ones we visited yesterday.

Sweating already, we retreat gratefully back to the car where our Driver is waiting with cold towels and icy water — small luxuries that feel like absolute heaven in the heat. Around the car park there are many children trying to sell bracelets, magnets and little souvenirs. The signs throughout the temples clearly ask visitors not to give money or buy from the children, as the authorities want to encourage them to stay in school rather than work in the tourist areas. It is not easy to ignore their pleading faces though — some become quite insistent and a trembling bottom lip appears, clearly graduates of the Angelina Jolie School of Acting! As hard as it is, we honour the request and politely decline.

Now we are off to see what we believe will be the final temple of the holiday. This one is quite different from the others — it sits on a small island in the middle of a large man-made reservoir called the Srah Srang, sometimes referred to as the “Royal Bath.” The temple itself is Neak Pean, built in the late 12th century during the reign of Jayavarman VII, one of the most powerful kings of the Khmer Empire.

Neak Pean was designed as a symbolic healing temple. In the centre is a circular island with a small sanctuary, surrounded by water and connected by a wooden walkway. The reservoir around it is part of the enormous ancient Angkor water management system — a network of canals, dams and reservoirs that allowed the Khmer civilisation to control water for agriculture and city life. It was an extraordinary piece of engineering for its time and one of the reasons Angkor was able to support such a large population.

The temple itself represents a mythical Himalayan lake believed in Hindu and Buddhist tradition to have healing powers. Four smaller pools once surrounded the central pool, each connected by stone spouts shaped like animals — lion, elephant, horse and human — representing the elements and the balance of nature. Pilgrims would move between the pools seeking spiritual and physical healing.

Today it is a peaceful and beautiful place. The walkway crosses the water and everywhere you look there are lotus flowers blooming in the sunshine. Their pink petals float above the surface while the reflections of the temple shimmer in the still water. After the intensity of the larger temples, it feels calm, almost meditative — a quiet moment to soak in the beauty of Angkor before the adventure finally comes to an end.

Back to the villa, but we asked to be dropped in the centre of Siem Reap for a wander around. You stroll through the shops, which feel more like a sprawling market. It always surprises me that stall after stall is selling almost exactly the same things — scarves, carvings, elephant trousers, and endless souvenirs. A couple of rows in and you reach the food market, where fresh vegetables and fruit are piled high. Coconut cream is being freshly made, the smells are wonderful, and the colours are incredibly vibrant.

We then set off in search of Pub Street, which became famous after the filming of Tomb Raider nearby and is now the main eating and drinking strip of the city. Walking along, we come across a fish pedicure place. We’ve heard about these before, and John was game enough to give it a try. Now John can barely have his feet touched without jerking away — he is that ticklish — so this was always going to be entertaining. But good on him, he was willing to give it a go. You can watch him in the short video below — his laughter is guaranteed to make you smile.

While we are there we meet Mr Vana, who is minding the fish pedicure shop for a friend. He offers to take us on a tuk-tuk tour for USD $3 and tells us he hasn’t had any work all day. After wandering a little longer, we decide to come back and give Mr Vana some business. It turns out to be a great decision. He takes us to a nearby pagoda and proves to be incredibly knowledgeable — and quite the socialist according to John who was having political discussions with him whilst I was off taking photos.

Mr Vana recounts many stories depicted on the pagoda walls. One tells of the Royal cows being presented with two bowls — one filled with grain and the other with rice. Whichever bowl the cows chose to eat from first was believed to predict which crop would flourish in the coming year. Another story was far more sobering. He explained how, in ancient times, monks would knowingly eat poisonous mushrooms gathered from the forest as part of rituals intended to bring happiness and good fortune to a young couple, fully aware that the act would cost them their lives. Whether legend or truth, the stories were fascinating and gave us a glimpse into the spiritual beliefs woven into Cambodian culture.

It was remarkable how much knowledge he shared with us. Here was a tuk-tuk driver earning just USD $3 for an hour’s ride, even supplying us with bottles of water along the way, yet speaking excellent English and proudly explaining the history and traditions of his country. English is taught in schools here, and you notice that most signs and shop names are written in both Khmer and English. It left us with a great deal of respect for Mr Vana and for the warmth and resilience of the Cambodian people.

Next stop was the Royal Palace. Mr Vana pulled up beside a long, colourful mural that stretched across one of the outer walls. He explained that it depicted the recent border conflict with Thailand, when tensions flared between the two countries over several ancient temples that sit along their shared border. The most famous of these is Preah Vihear Temple, a magnificent 11th-century Khmer temple perched high on a cliff in the Dangrek Mountains. Although the temple was awarded to Cambodia by the International Court of Justice in 1962, the surrounding land has long been disputed by Thailand.

Tensions escalated dramatically between 2008 and 2011, when soldiers from both countries clashed along the border and artillery shells were fired in the area around several temples. Sadly, some of these historic sites were damaged in the fighting. Eventually the dispute was taken back to the International Court of Justice, which reaffirmed Cambodia’s sovereignty over the temple in 2013. The mural we were looking at told the Cambodian side of that story — a reminder of how deeply these ancient temples are tied to national identity and pride.

The Royal Palace itself dates back to when Siem Reap served as a royal residence during the Angkorian period. While the modern capital of Phnom Penh is now home to the official royal palace, this historic site still holds great cultural and spiritual importance. Today it is no longer used as a residence, but local people continue to visit the grounds to pray and pay their respects.

Everything was immaculately maintained — the buildings, the murals, the gardens. There was an obvious sense of pride in preserving these places. Even without the bustle of a working palace, the atmosphere felt peaceful and reverent, as if the history of the Khmer kings still lingered quietly within the walls.

Then we continued on to a small Hindu temple, admiring the intricate carvings and the vibrant colours that have survived the centuries. After that, we made our way back home via the botanical gardens, enjoying the greenery and calm among the tropical plants — a perfect contrast to the busy streets of Siem Reap.

All of this for just USD3 — an absolute bargain. Along the way, Mr Vana mentioned he would normally like to stop at an air-conditioned shop where he gets a USD10 commission for bringing tourists. We offered to give him a little extra if he simply took us straight home, and he agreed without a fuss. It was a relaxed, easygoing morning, a lovely mix of culture, nature, and local insight — one of those experiences that makes travel feel effortless and enjoyable.

Back home for a quick rest and some lunch, we geared up again for a 5pm sunset adventure. We had two options: trek up another 300 stairs to a temple — only 400 people allowed — or take a drive to the top of a nearby mountain with a short stroll to watch the sunset over the rice paddies. Now, 34ºC in the sun… the choice was obvious.

We opted for the drive, which turned out to be perfect. Along the way, we passed through villages with bustling market stalls and families picnicking by the roadside. People were resting in hammocks, children were playing, and the emerald green rice fields stretched endlessly around us. As the sun dipped low, it cast a golden glow across the paddies, painting a breathtaking scene that felt like the perfect, peaceful finale to a truly unforgettable holiday.

Then it was back to town for a farewell dinner and a final cocktail. The streets of Siem Reap were alive with the evening buzz, lanterns glowing softly, and the air scented with street food and night flowers. We toasted to an incredible journey — full of adventure, culture, laughter, and new friends — savouring the flavours of Cambodian cuisine one last time. A perfect, warm-hearted end to our holiday before heading home.