North Vietnam

Getting there

There’s something rather delicious about setting off somewhere completely different — new language, new flavours, new history — and this time our compass is pointed firmly towards Vietnam.

Over the next few weeks we’ll be exploring both north and south Vietnam, from the buzz of Hanoi to the energy of Ho Chi Minh City, with a little side adventure just for John and me into Cambodia. Because why stop at one country when you can squeeze in two?

This trip is also a first for us in another way — we’re travelling with TripADeal. For those who haven’t heard of them, TripADeal is an Australian-based travel company founded in 2011 that specialises in heavily packaged holiday deals — bundling flights, accommodation, transfers and tours into surprisingly affordable packages. They negotiate bulk rates and pass on the savings, which means you can travel further (and sometimes longer) than you might otherwise manage. This particular holiday was so well priced that even with upgrading our accommodation (sadly not the flights!), it still felt like a bit of a bargain. And as you know — we are always up for an adventure, especially when it represents good value.

We’ll be joined by two of our favourite people — my sister Jen and her lovely husband Neil — flying into Hanoi from Perth, while John and I will arrive from Sydney on a direct nine-hour flight… seated proudly at the back of the plane. Character building, I’m sure.

We’re especially excited because a dear friend of ours, originally from Vietnam and now living in Melbourne, is one of the warmest, most generous souls we know. If the Vietnamese people are anything like her, we are in for something truly special.

So here we go — new cultures, chaotic traffic, incredible food, a touch of humidity, and no doubt a few unexpected moments along the way.

Adventure. Adventure. Adventure.

Let the good times begin.

I’ll be honest — I am very excited about this holiday… the flight, however, not so much. I know exactly how that sounds, and yes, I do feel a tiny bit guilty about it. But if I’m choosing between travelling in style or our nearest and dearest inheriting a little more one day… well… priorities! 😄

In fairness to John, he has done an absolutely amazing job organising everything. This is our first adventure with TripADeal, highly recommended by Hursty and Mags (who I know are reading this — so no pressure if it all goes pear-shaped!). Deep breaths all round.

So, with sweaty palms, long queues, mild pre-flight nerves and a ticket that stubbornly refused to be upgraded, off we set. We were flying with Vietnam Airlines, and Hue and David had previously given them a solid thumbs-up — although, it must be said, they were seated at the pointy end of the plane!

I won’t drag this part out… because in truth, it was absolutely fine. Nine hours of gloriously trashy television later and before I knew it, we were descending into Hanoi.

And what a welcome — mild winter weather! Coming straight from sweltering Sydney, it felt like absolute magic.

We were efficiently met by our TripADeal guide and whisked smoothly off to our hotel. First impressions: very good indeed. Spacious rooms, everything you could want, and best of all — it was already home to Jen and Neil, who had arrived a few hours ahead of us from Perth.

With a four-hour time difference catching up with me, there was only one sensible plan: shower and bed.

Fresh in the morning… we’re off on our first walking tour. Adventure continues.

Day 1 - Morning Walking Tour

A great night’s sleep works wonders. We woke fresh, the air surprisingly cool, and after a good breakfast we met our tour guide Tai — also known as Bobby.

Bobby is enthusiastic in the extreme and something of a comedian… very much appreciating his own jokes, sometimes more than his audience! There are 15 of us in the group (a couple still missing) and, as it turns out, we are all from Australia.

Before we set off, we have a briefing — and what timing. We have arrived in Vietnam on New Year’s Eve for Tết Nguyên Đán (Tet), the biggest holiday of the year. In short, the country more or less shuts down. Shops closed. Markets closed. The very market we are scheduled to visit… closed.

To their credit, our fresh-faced group takes the news remarkably well.

In a lovely gesture, Bobby presents each of us with a traditional red envelope for the New Year, complete with lucky money inside. He then walks us through the itinerary and Vietnamese tipping practices — with the careful detail of a Grade 2 teacher — all while quietly chuckling at his own running commentary. I jest, of course. It is clearly done with genuine warmth and a real desire to give us the best possible experience.

We learn about the currency, how to ask for prices, and the little practical tips that help avoid holiday mishaps. It is actually very helpful.

Eventually, it is time to leave the hotel and head out on foot to explore a very quiet Hanoi.

Our hotel sits right on the edge of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the peaceful heart of the city. Our first stop is a pagoda, where local Buddhists come to pray — a calm and fitting beginning to our first morning in Vietnam.

In Vietnam, the words “pagoda” and “temple” are often used interchangeably by visitors, but locally they serve different spiritual purposes. A pagoda (chùa) is primarily a Buddhist place of worship, where monks may live and where people come to pray to the Buddha, make offerings, and seek peace or guidance. A temple (đền), on the other hand, is usually dedicated to historical figures, national heroes, or local deities, reflecting Vietnam’s strong tradition of ancestor and folk worship. In simple terms, if you are honouring the Buddha, you are likely in a pagoda; if you are paying respects to a revered person or spirit, you are most likely in a temple.

The pagoda is thick with the gentle scent of incense. Families are out in force, dressed in their Sunday best — and oh my, the Vietnamese ladies are simply elegant in their traditional áo dài, the long flowing tops with side slits worn over trousers. Tiny boys look impossibly smart in bow ties and suits, while little girls shimmer in the most beautiful silks — colourful and absolutely gorgeous to witness.

Colour is something I expected in Vietnam, and I am not disappointed. With the recent Independence celebrations and the Tet New Year festivities, flowers are everywhere — elaborate displays, signs made entirely of blooms — and wherever your eye lands there are joyful bursts of yellow, orange and red. The weather is a soft grey — misty… or perhaps foggy — I’m not entirely sure which, but it is absolutely perfect walking weather.

After exploring the pagoda, we regroup with Bobby outside and continue our stroll around Hoàn Kiếm Lake towards the nearby temple.

Our destination is the historic Quán Thánh Temple, one of the four sacred guardian temples of Hanoi. Built in the 11th century, the temple is dedicated to Huyền Thiên Trấn Vũ (also known as the Black Turtle God), a Taoist deity believed to protect the northern direction and ward off evil spirits.

It is very busy — but not with tourists. Real families are here, quietly paying respects to ancestors and deities. There is a sense of intimacy and reverence that makes many of us feel we are gently intruding on something deeply personal. Rather than venture too far inside, we circle the peaceful grounds instead, soaking in the traditional arts, the soft music drifting through the air, and the statues that gracefully watch over the temple gardens.

From there we continue our walk, looping through leafy parks that hug Hoàn Kiếm Lake while Bobby gives us our first practical lesson in crossing Vietnamese roads. The traffic is surprisingly quiet because of Tet, but to our eyes it still looks wonderfully chaotic — a steady dance of scooters that somehow just… works. Deep breath, step forward confidently, and keep walking. Easier said than done, but we all survive!

Our destination is the oldest Catholic church in the city, built during the French colonial period. To reach it, we pass through the Government Administration area, where Bobby becomes noticeably more serious. No photos here, he tells us firmly, and ordinary people like us are not permitted inside certain buildings — only the important officials. There is definitely a faint sense of “them and us” in the air.

He pauses to point out the different coloured number plates on passing vehicles, explaining how they indicate various levels of government status — another small glimpse into how the system works. Just as he is warming to his topic, a couple of rather stern-looking guards appear and gently but very clearly usher him along. Message received.

We continue down a truly magnificent tree-lined avenue, the branches arching overhead like a natural cathedral ceiling, until the spires of St. Joseph's Cathedral, Hanoi come into view — our striking French-built Catholic church and the perfect next chapter in our Hanoi wanderings.

Then it was a gentle stroll back to the hotel for a relaxed lunch and a welcome bit of downtime. Bobby sensibly suggested we stick to eating in the hotel, as many of the restaurants he would normally recommend were closed for the Tet holiday. With a long bus journey ahead of us tomorrow, the last thing anyone wanted was a dodgy tummy — advice we were more than happy to follow.

So lunch it was in the hotel’s Chinese restaurant… and what a gorgeous, flavour-packed feast it turned out to be. Absolutely delicious and exactly what we needed.

The afternoon unfolded at holiday pace — an afternoon nap for some (no names mentioned), and a refreshing swim in the hotel pool, which was just what the doctor ordered.

We rounded off the evening in the best possible way: cocktails on the terrace overlooking Hoàn Kiếm Lake, fireworks popping in the distance, twinkling lights reflecting on the water, and the easy comfort of great company. A rather lovely end to our first full day in Hanoi.

Below is a very short video of the extremely quiet Hanoi streets with everyone on holiday and to cross the road, you walk through that!!!

Day 2  - Halong Bay

We are now taking a four-hour bus ride from Hanoi to Hạ Long Bay, where we will board our junk boat for the night. Hạ Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s most famous natural wonders, dotted with nearly 2,000 limestone karst islands and islets, many topped with lush greenery and rising dramatically from the emerald water — no wonder it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A junk boat, for those wondering (as I certainly was!), is a traditional wooden sailing vessel that has been used in Asia for centuries. Today’s versions — like our rather lovely floating hotel — keep the classic curved sails and wooden charm but are fitted out with comfortable cabins, en-suites and all the mod cons.

The journey from Hanoi to Hạ Long is fascinating in its own right. You pass hundreds upon hundreds of rice paddy fields, a patchwork of vivid green and shimmering water. Rice very much has seasons in Vietnam. Typically there are two to three crops a year in the north: some fields were bright green with young rice shoots, while others were flooded in preparation for the next planting. It is a beautifully hypnotic landscape.

The bus ride also involved another education seminar from Bobby — this time on how to cross the road in Vietnam. Apparently (and we will have to test this!) you simply raise your arm, walk forward steadily, and keep a constant pace. The cars and scooters will flow around you. Apparently!

We stopped halfway at a workshop supporting people with disabilities, many affected by Agent Orange from the American War (as it is known here — not the Vietnam War). The artisans create the most exquisite embroidered paintings. Oh my goodness — the skill and patience involved is AMAZING. Of course, we bought one… the umbrellas were irresistible.

Then came our first Vietnamese coffee experience. Neil and I tried the iced coffee — deliciously strong and sweet with condensed milk — while John opted for the hot version, which he declared very nice indeed.

Back on the bus and onward to Hạ Long. When we arrived, everything was seamlessly organised. You truly cannot put a price on having a guide who speaks the language and knows all the tricks — the whole process was wonderfully smooth.

We hopped onto a tender and boarded the Phoenix Cruise junk boat. Lunch on board was delicious, and then we went to inspect our rooms. I was fully expecting something rather ghastly and was honestly dreading going below deck — not even daring to hope for an en-suite. But to my absolute amazement… it was fantastic! Double doors opening to the sea breeze, en-suite bathroom, air-con — all the comforts of our Hanoi hotel, just a little cosier and gently bobbing.

The weather was overcast, so the views were not quite the postcard perfection you see online, but it had its own quiet serenity. The landscape absolutely draws you in — you become mesmerised by the shapes of the islands and the sheer number of them. Just beautiful.

Our first excursion was to the wet cave (water tunnel). You could kayak and get wet or take a wooden sampan rowed by a very skilled oarsman and stay dry. As it was quite chilly, we unanimously chose the dry option. It was busy — Tet is the biggest holiday — so the water was almost as lively as the streets of Hanoi, with kayaks and boats weaving around each other in a surprisingly polite ballet.

Through the tunnel we glided into a hidden water courtyard, completely enclosed by towering peaks and sheltered from the wind. Very peaceful.

There were monkeys there, just as Bobby had promised. I did briefly wonder if they were racist monkeys until he explained they are used in polio research — at which point I realised they were rhesus monkeys, not racist monkeys! We spotted several before heading back to the boat and on to our overnight anchorage.

Our next planned excursion is to a dry cave… but there are over 800 steps up and down. The way Bobby described it, I can report that roughly half the group immediately piked out!

Yes, the dry cave did have a lot of steps, but as I have mentioned before it is Tet holiday and everything is very, very busy — so the crowds meant we moved very slowly up the 400 steps and back down again. In the end it was not too strenuous at all, which is probably good training for tomorrow’s hike… 430 steps up, up and up!

The cave itself is enormous, filled with dramatic stalactites and stalagmites — and, of course, Bobby’s favourite… the very phallic-looking formation that had everyone giggling like schoolchildren. There is also the famous lucky tortoise head, which you are supposed to rub for good fortune — and naturally I was not about to miss that opportunity.

As impressive as the cave is, the real beauty lies outside. Hạ Long Bay is simply gobsmackingly beautiful and unlike anywhere else we will see on this trip. The misty skies almost add to the magic.

On the way down, Jen treated herself to a fresh coconut and thoroughly enjoyed the refreshing reward. Then it was back to the boat for a welcome hot shower, dinner, and a cooking class to round out another wonderful day.

Back on board, we counted at least 20 other cruise boats around us in Hạ Long Bay — it is very busy. Part of me wishes it were more secluded, but I suppose somewhere this special is always going to be shared.

Happy Hour was a little spoiled by the weather. Next came a cooking demonstration on how to make Vietnamese spring rolls. We all had a turn at rolling our own, which was great fun, but the wind whipping across the deck soon sent us scurrying downstairs… straight into a group that was having far too much fun. I suspect they may have skipped the 800-step cave climb and stayed firmly planted at the bar.  Still, you cannot really begrudge people enjoying themselves. 

Dinner, however, was a complete spectacle. Drums began beating, the lights dimmed, and our starter arrived in procession — a hollowed-out pineapple glowing with tealights and surrounded by spring rolls. It was really quite special.

Then it was off to bed for us, as we have another early start in the morning.

Day 3 - Ha Long Bay, Pearl Farm and Train Street

That night Newcastle United were playing, and John never rests easily when they are on. The symphony of mysterious banging and creaking noises from the boat certainly didn’t help matters — though I slept soundly, needless to say.

Morning dawned a little brighter, and today was the big climb up Titop Island (often misspelled in the brochures!). The island is named after Soviet cosmonaut Gherman Titov, who visited the bay with Ho Chi Minh in 1962.

It is also one of the very few places in Hạ Long Bay where swimming is permitted… but for us Aussies, the water was far too cold to be tempting.

So up, up, up we went. This was properly bum-burning, thigh-torturing work — but we made it! And oh my goodness, the views from the top were absolutely spectacular. Of course, what goes up must come down, and reversing our way down the 430 steps was no small feat either. Yikes.

A very well-deserved rest awaited us at the bottom, everyone glowing with a fine sense of achievement — and, thankfully, feeling considerably warmer than when we started.

Then it was back on the boat for the cruise back to port, before boarding the bus to a nearby pearl farm — and what an interesting visit that turned out to be.

Vietnamese pearl farming, particularly around Hạ Long Bay, benefits from the bay’s ideal salinity and mineral balance, which helps produce beautifully lustrous cultured pearls. The relatively stable water conditions and clean marine environment make this region especially well suited to pearl cultivation.

At the farm we were given a detailed demonstration of the delicate process. Natural pearls are incredibly rare — only about 1 in 10,000 oysters will produce one by chance. Cultured pearls, however, are far more reliable, with roughly 1 in 3 oysters successfully producing a pearl when assisted.

The process is quite fascinating (and very precise). First, there is a donor oyster, from which technicians carefully scrape a tiny piece of mantle membrane. Then they gently pry open the host oyster and insert both:

• a small round bead made from shell
  
  

• and a sliver of the donor membrane
  
  

This membrane is the magic ingredient — it stimulates the oyster to coat the bead with layers of nacre (mother-of-pearl), slowly forming the cultured pearl over time. It is intricate, patient work requiring remarkable skill.

After the demonstration we wandered through the pearl showroom… and then came the surprise. Pearls that are not good enough for jewellery are crushed and used in anti-ageing face cream.

Yes — that is exactly what I bought at the pearl farm! Oh my, how the times have changed.

Then it was back on the bus to Hanoi. Bobby offered us the option to cut nearly two hours off the journey by taking the toll road — for 15,000 dong per person. Everyone quickly agreed. Whether this was purely efficient tour management or a clever way to boost the tip pool for the Aussies… well, the jury is still out!

We did, however, arrive back in Hanoi much earlier than expected, which gave Bobby the chance to offer an extra excursion to the wonderfully whacky Hanoi Train Street.

And honestly — nothing quite prepares you for it.

This narrow residential street has active railway tracks running straight through it, with coffee shops and tiny homes pressed right up against the rails. When the train comes through, tables, chairs and the occasional startled tourist are swiftly pulled back to make way. Sitting there, it genuinely feels like if you stretched your arm out at the wrong moment, you could touch the train. Completely mad. Completely mesmerising.

A few interesting facts that make Train Street even more remarkable:

• The line is part of the North–South Railway, connecting Hanoi with Ho Chi Minh City.

• Trains pass only a handful of times per day, but timings can change, which adds to the suspense.

• Authorities have periodically closed the street to tourists due to safety concerns, though access often reopens informally through the cafés.

• Many families have lived along the tracks for decades — long before it became an Instagram sensation.

• The café culture there is relatively recent, growing rapidly with tourism over the past decade.

It is chaotic, slightly nerve-wracking, and utterly fascinating — one of those “only in Vietnam” moments that you really do have to see to believe.

We opted to walk back to the hotel via a bank machine — which turned into a mission in itself. After several failed attempts and much button-pushing (and perhaps a few muttered words), we finally managed to extract some cash.

Success at last… and I am pleased to report — no Santiago taxi moment for the Thommos!

Day 4 - Ninh Binh

A new day, a new dawn. Today we are off on the two-hour journey to Ninh Bình. It is still Tet holiday, so everything is very, very busy. The bus ride itself is uneventful, aside from more entertaining commentary from Bobby — who is now quite determined to try to put us off the boat ride!

On the way from Hanoi to Ninh Bình we made a rather entertaining stop at a bamboo fibre supermarket. We were welcomed with a polite cup of tea before being ushered into what can only be described as a live Shopping Channel performance. A very enthusiastic presenter expertly spruiked everything from coconut fibre cloths to bamboo products of every imaginable variety. The real showstopper, however, was the bamboo charcoal activated “healing” belts, which supposedly warm you from the inside out — and, somewhat mysteriously, John and Neil both declared that they actually worked. Well… a few million dong later, we emerged lighter in the wallet and continued on to the temple.

Our second stop is the Đinh Temple, built to honour the Đinh Dynasty — the first imperial dynasty of Vietnam.

A little history lesson (thank you, Bobby!):

The dynasty was founded by Đinh Bộ Lĩnh in the 10th century. After the collapse of Chinese control, Vietnam fell into a period of chaos known as the Twelve Warlords era, where regional leaders fought for power. Đinh Bộ Lĩnh, originally a local military leader, gradually defeated the rival warlords and unified the country in 968 AD.

Once in power, he:

• Declared himself emperor

• Named the country Đại Cồ Việt (an early name for Vietnam)

• Established a centralised feudal state

• Strengthened the military to maintain independence from China
  
  

He chose Hoa Lư — right here in Ninh Bình — as the capital. The location was strategically brilliant, surrounded by limestone karsts and rivers that acted as natural defensive walls.

Hoa Lư remained Vietnam’s capital for about 42 years (968–1010) until the capital later moved to Hanoi. Today, the temples here stand as a peaceful reminder of where Vietnam’s first independent imperial dynasty began.

It is a fascinating and very atmospheric place to wander — history tucked among the dramatic limestone peaks.

After the temple visit, Bobby delivered the rather disappointing news that the boat ride was completely sold out — Tet crowds again — so unfortunately we would not be going today. The good news was that we could try again tomorrow. Instead, he announced a change of plan: we would visit what he proudly called “the most beautiful church in all of Vietnam.”

First, though, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant in Ninh Bình. To say it was busy would be an understatement. It is Tet holiday after all, and it genuinely felt like all of Vietnam had descended on Ninh Bình at once. The restaurant was enormous — easily the equivalent of five or six of our restaurants back home — and absolutely chock-a-block with patrons.

Lunch itself was enjoyable, if slightly confusing. There was very little explanation of what we were eating or quite how we were meant to assemble it, but we soldiered on regardless… and it was delicious in the end.

On the drive we also passed an enormous cement factory. Bobby casually mentioned that the owner also happens to own the largest private residence in Southeast Asia — and from what we could glimpse, it is absolutely monstrous.  Photo below...

Next stop was what Bobby proudly billed as the most beautiful church in all of Vietnam — the remarkable Phát Diệm Cathedral.

Often called the “Catholic cathedral that looks like a pagoda,” Phát Diệm is one of Vietnam’s most unusual religious sites. Construction began in 1875 under Vietnamese priest Pierre Trần Lục (commonly known as Father Six) and took more than 20 years to complete. What makes the complex so striking is its deliberate fusion of traditional Vietnamese temple architecture with European Catholic design.

Rather than the soaring Gothic style you might expect, the cathedral features curved pagoda-style roofs, intricate stone and ironwood carvings, spacious courtyards, and locally quarried stone throughout. Father Trần Lục’s vision was to make Catholicism feel culturally Vietnamese rather than purely Western, and the result is a beautifully harmonious blend of East and West.

Historically, the cathedral also played an important role during turbulent times. During the conflicts of the mid-20th century, the Phát Diệm area was a major Catholic stronghold and at times functioned almost like a semi-autonomous enclave. Despite wars and weather, the complex has remained remarkably well preserved.

What also surprised us was how whimsical the grounds felt — almost a little like a serene theme park. The gardens are dotted with decorative rock formations, goat statues, little rivers and bridges, and playful landscaped corners that invite wandering. It gives the whole complex a peaceful yet slightly storybook quality, making it quite unlike any church most of us have seen.

For a day where we have spent most of the time on the bus, I feel surprisingly exhausted. Off we head to our hotel in Ninh Bình — and I must admit, I was quietly wondering… what on earth will the bargain TripADeal accommodation be like???

Well… I needn’t have worried.

It is amazing.

We have just come back from cocktails on the terrace beside a gorgeous infinity pool, finally having a chance to properly relax and get to know our fellow travellers a little better. Not a bad way at all to end a long travel day!  

That big dome like building is another private residence...

Day 5 - Tam Cốc

After an eventful evening — which ended with my peace-loving, non-confrontational sister very much not being either of those things — we had a bit of unexpected dinner theatre. Poor Mick and Kerry’s meal took over three hours to arrive and, when it finally did, it was cold… and I mean fridge cold.

Word of warning: stay on Jen’s good side, because she is decidedly feisty when pushed. Needless to say, she very efficiently secured them a free meal and even a personal greeting from the owner’s son. It was quite something to watch — John, Neil and I simply stood back while this small but mighty tornado worked her magic. Highly amusing from the sidelines!

The hotel itself in Ninh Bình is fabulous, boasting an amazing pool deck and cocktail bar on the top floor. The nightscape over the city is beautiful, made even more festive by fireworks popping off every 30 minutes.

After a great night’s sleep and breakfast, we woke to a strong burning smell — very reminiscent of back-burning in Sydney. Apparently it comes from farmers burning off rice stalks after the harvest, something quite common in the region.

Today’s adventure was a river boat cruise along Tam Cốc — and chaotic is probably the best word for the start of it. It is still Tet holiday, so it was very, very busy.

Often called “Hạ Long Bay on land,” Tam Cốc is famous for its peaceful waterways winding through towering limestone karsts and emerald rice fields. The traditional sampan boats here are rowed by local women — many using the wonderfully unique technique of rowing with their feet — which is quite something to watch.

Once we got moving, the magic quickly took over. The river meanders gently through flooded rice paddies and beneath dramatic limestone mountains, weaving through low, dark caves and back out into wide open valleys. Even with the crowds, there is a calm, almost dreamlike quality to the landscape that draws you in.

Absolutely mesmerising.

Then we went to visit the very famous and truly beautiful Bích Động Pagoda, dramatically set into the mountainside near Tam Cốc.

Dating back to 1428, the pagoda complex was expanded in the 18th century by two Buddhist monks who were captivated by the peaceful setting. Bích Động is actually a three-tiered cave temple complex — often described as five separate pagoda areas — built progressively up the limestone cliff. Its name fittingly means “Green Grotto.”

The climb is part of the experience. To reach the upper levels you ascend a series of steep stone steps — roughly 300 steps in total but they are very very steep steps — winding up the mountainside through caves and past shrines. It is not overly long but it is certainly a leg-burner in parts, especially in the humidity.

Jen was absolutely amazing. Given her fear of heights, she handled the climb up beautifully — helped, I think, by the fact that the main drop is behind you on the ascent. Coming down is another story entirely… but she was a brave little Duracell and just kept going.

Then it was my turn for drama.

I took a tumble — I think it started with a slightly twisted ankle — and before I knew it I had bumped down a few steps. Luckily I was in a Buddhist pagoda because I got very, very lucky. My sunnies went flying three steps ahead of me, and when I finally gathered myself and stood up… I promptly stepped on them.

Crunch.

And somehow — not a scratch! They appear perfectly fine. My ankle was a little achy, my ego thoroughly bruised, but otherwise I survived. I did, however, manage to create a small but impressive traffic jam on the staircase.  I am glad I stroked the Turtles head in the cave the other day!

With dignity (mostly) restored, it was then off to lunch.

Everything in Vietnam feels wonderfully ornate and colourful, but what has impressed me most is the respectful calm of the people on the roads. Even during the Tet holiday — when the traffic is incredibly busy — there is very little of the impatience we might expect. Drivers stay cool, give way to one another, and somehow the whole swirling dance just works. The same goes for queues: people wait patiently, often with a smile. It is something many places could learn from.

Lunch was at a local restaurant in Ninh Bình and, as seems to be the Vietnamese way, it was not just lunch — it was a feast.

We started with beef soup with puffed rice, which was absolutely delicious. Then came Vietnamese spring rolls packed with coriander — blahhh (for me!), although everyone else thoroughly enjoyed them. The parade continued: chicken stir-fry with rice, beef with black pepper, braised pork, and stir-fried vegetables. Honestly… are you full yet?

To finish, the most beautifully carved pineapple appeared, cut so cleverly you could pick it up like a popsicle. A true taste sensation (coriander aside).

And the best part? All included in the TripADeal price.

Then it was back to the hotel for a well-earned rest. Jen and I decided to treat ourselves at the spa — 60-minute hot stone massage plus a 60-minute foot massage for $45. Absolute bargain… or so we thought.

On arrival there was a faint pollution smell, which unfortunately was even stronger in the treatment room. I had to ask them to spray some air freshener, which helped — briefly — until it politely disappeared about five minutes later.

Jen and I were in the same room and had both confidently selected firm pressure. What we failed to factor in was just how strong these Vietnamese women are.

We began with a dry face and head massage. After spending a small fortune trying to reduce wrinkles, I couldn’t help feeling my masseuse was enthusiastically reversing the process the way my skin was being tugged back and forth.

Then came the hair. Just as I thought the worst was over, she started gently — I sighed with relief — but no, no, no… suddenly she was grabbing chunks of hair and doing a vigorous tug-and-shake manoeuvre. It hurt, I’m not going to lie.

The neck portion was actually quite pleasant, and then we moved onto the legs. Still no hot stones at this point, so Jen bravely enquired in case they had forgotten. We were assured — via gestures — that they were indeed coming.

My therapist sensibly warmed her hands with the stones before using them. Jen, however, was not afforded the same gentle introduction. Her therapist appeared to place the hot stones straight onto her and proceed as though she were on a racetrack — the stone being the car and Jen’s back the circuit. Very hot. Very fast. Very… enthusiastic.

Both of us knew we absolutely could not make eye contact or the giggles would start and there would be no recovery.

After our hour of what can only be described as robust relaxation, we were told to dress and complete a survey form — while the staff stood very closely behind us watching what we wrote. Naturally, everything was marked “excellent”… even the toilet odour.

Then came the foot massage. Surely nothing could go wrong there.

Well.

The foot massage turned out to be approximately 80% legs (which were still recovering from the previous workout) and about 20% actual feet. Once again, we completed a closely supervised survey, followed by a polite Google Translate request asking if, since they had done well, they might receive a tip.

Let’s just say… not quite your usual Gillian Adams spa day!

After some much-needed shower recovery, we headed up to the Sky Bar for cocktails. Spirits were high — and we were quietly confident that dinner would be excellent, given that Jen is now apparently on very friendly terms with the owner.

Needless to say… it absolutely was.

Day 6 — Ninh Bình to Pù Luông

Today we make the five-hour journey from Ninh Bình to Pù Luông Nature Reserve. Thankfully, with the Tet holiday still in full swing, the traffic is lighter than usual, so the run should be a good one.

Pù Luông sits in Thanh Hóa Province and covers more than 17,600 hectares of protected forest and farmland. The reserve ranges from about 60 metres up to roughly 1,700 metres above sea level, with many of the lodges and villages perched between 300–1,000 metres — which explains why it so often feels like you are literally in the clouds.

The roads today are surprisingly good, and our bus driver is superb — calm, careful and considerate. No white-knuckle, adrenaline adventures, which suits us just fine.

As we leave the flatter lowlands, the scenery begins to change. We still pass rice fields, but gradually the landscape transforms into the iconic terraced paddy fields we have all seen in photographs. They are exquisite — layer upon layer of emerald green carved into the hillsides. Absolutely beautiful.

We make a quick comfort stop for the usual loo break, coffee, and — of course — further shopping opportunities… and then it’s back on the road again, climbing steadily higher into the misty hills.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant quite spectacularly perched on the edge of a cliff, looking straight down over the rice terraces. Apparently we were very lucky — more often than not the whole valley is wrapped in mist — but today the views opened up just enough to show off those beautiful layered greens.

Our hotel, in Pù Luông Nature Reserve, is just along the road — although “just along” is a little optimistic. Like most resorts here, it is built into the hillside where buses simply cannot reach. So it’s a 600-metre walk down to the resort, while the luggage makes a far more dignified journey by scooter.

Of course, what goes down must come up… which means a 600-metre uphill walk every time we leave the hotel. Consider our fitness program well and truly activated.

The effort, however, is completely worth it. Our rooms are perched right on the edge of the rice terraces overlooking the valley, and the view is nothing short of magical. Clouds drift in and out like slow-moving theatre curtains — one moment revealing dramatic mountains and vivid green paddies, the next swallowing everything into a soft white-out.

Mesmerising, moody, and utterly beautiful.

More sunset cocktails — if you can see the sun, that is, as we are quite literally in the clouds. Dinner at the hotel followed, and then an early night with a bit of Night Manager to wind down.

I slept well; Jen, Neil and John reported rather more intermittent efforts.

Day 7 — Pù Luông village

Today we visited a local village in Pù Luông Nature Reserve. Bobby kept calling it “the most local,” but I suspect he really meant the most remote.

It was a 1.5 km walk down, down, down into the valley to reach the village — a small, peaceful settlement with a little school, surrounding rice terraces, and perhaps about twenty dwellings in total. It was genuinely special to see this quieter side of Vietnam.

Chickens ran freely, dogs wandered about as if they owned the place, and the children were absolutely delighted to practise their English with us. Moments like this are what make these trips so memorable.

From the village we continued on to a cave, walking through the rice fields with towering limestone mountains rising above us. By now we were below the cloud line, and the whole landscape had a soft, shadowed feel to it — very atmospheric.

The cave itself was enormous and stretched deep into the mountain — and, incredibly, it even seemed to have its own little cloud lingering inside.

Then came the return journey.

Jen very impressively tackled the 1.5 km climb back up, up, up on foot. John, Neil and I, however, made the entirely sensible decision to boost the local economy and took the scooter option back to the top.

Jen and I also squeezed in a foot massage at the spa — and I’m pleased to report we are officially back in love with massages after the torture session in Ninh Bình. Balance has been restored!

Tonight we have a BBQ party with traditional Thai music and dancing — so I had better go and shower and make myself gorgeous.

BBQ Party & Pù Luông

Last night we had a BBQ party at a local restaurant — just for our group — and what a fun evening it turned out to be. The venue, tucked high in the mountains of Pù Luông Nature Reserve, was quite literally in the clouds.

This region is home to the Thai ethnic people, one of Vietnam’s recognised minority groups (Vietnam officially recognises 54 ethnic groups, with the Thai being one of the larger minorities). Despite the name, they are not from modern-day Thailand; rather, their ancestors migrated centuries ago from southern China — the same broad Tai linguistic family that also spread into what is now Thailand and Laos.

By now our tour group is well and truly bonded — the room was buzzing with chatter and shared stories while the chefs fired up the BBQ. The smoky aroma was wonderfully unmistakable, helped along by enthusiastic charcoal burning in the corner just in case we missed the point.

The evening began with traditional Thai dancing and singing — graceful, elegant, and beautifully performed. But it wasn’t long before the crowd participation began.

First up: happy water — the local rice wine, and at around 45%, it certainly packs a punch. It was poured through long bamboo pipes rather like an elaborate water feature, and there was much encouragement to have more… and then a little more… and perhaps just one more for luck.

Soon the dancers had us all involved — including an enthusiastic “Aussie Aussie Aussie, Oi Oi Oi!” which we absolutely did not see coming.

Then came the traditional bamboo dancing with guests invited to join in — a test of coordination at the best of times, and particularly entertaining after the happy water had been flowing.

Day 8 Hieu Village & Waterfall & Pu Luong Village

Next morning we are up and out to visit a waterfall and two more villages. The waterfall — Hieu Waterfall in Pu Luong Nature Reserve — is more of a babbling brook at this time of year, but would probably be a worthwhile stop in the rainy season when it is in full flow. Hidden near Hieu Village, it is known for its clear limestone-fed water and is a popular swimming spot when the volume is higher. The walk to the village is about 600 m uphill on a gentle incline, but with the humidity it gets the sweat glands working overtime.

Then a short ride back towards the hotel for a visit to the village below our rooms — which we didn’t even know was there! Today was the clearest day… even though it was pouring with rain at the hotel, it was completely clear below the cloud line. And when I say clear, I mean gloriously free of rain.

It was a lovely wander through the village: traditional houses on stilts, with living and socialising downstairs and sleeping upstairs. Dogs and chickens roam freely, and before long you find yourself strolling among the terraced rice fields — truly magical.

Then back home for some lunch and a little R&R — where John had a massage and was issued his favourite paper knickers to put on. Jen and I stayed in the room and applied our collagen masks, which apparently need to stay on for three to five hours. Even on holiday we don’t have time for that… there is socialising and cocktails to be had!

Our last night in Pu Luong was also the final evening with the group, so the hotel dining room was rearranged into one long table, with social frivolity in abundance. What a wonderful place. That said, I am rather looking forward to some drier air — everything here is damp. Clothes straight out of the suitcase are damp, the sheets are damp… everything leaves you feeling slightly sticky.

But absolutely worth the visit. Pu Luong is truly spectacular, and if you enjoy hiking, I’m sure there are many, many wonderful trails waiting to be explored.

Then this morning we awoke to find ourselves above the clouds, with the village and rice fields below drifting in and out of the mist. No matter where you look, the scenery is constantly changing — just gorgeous.

This is the end of North Vietnam sector, we will travel back to Hanoi and fly to Central Vietnam tomorrow.