North Vietnam

Getting there

There’s something rather delicious about setting off somewhere completely different — new language, new flavours, new history — and this time our compass is pointed firmly towards Vietnam.

Over the next few weeks we’ll be exploring both north and south Vietnam, from the buzz of Hanoi to the energy of Ho Chi Minh City, with a little side adventure just for John and me into Cambodia. Because why stop at one country when you can squeeze in two?

This trip is also a first for us in another way — we’re travelling with TripADeal. For those who haven’t heard of them, TripADeal is an Australian-based travel company founded in 2011 that specialises in heavily packaged holiday deals — bundling flights, accommodation, transfers and tours into surprisingly affordable packages. They negotiate bulk rates and pass on the savings, which means you can travel further (and sometimes longer) than you might otherwise manage. This particular holiday was so well priced that even with upgrading our accommodation (sadly not the flights!), it still felt like a bit of a bargain. And as you know — we are always up for an adventure, especially when it represents good value.

We’ll be joined by two of our favourite people — my sister Jen and her lovely husband Neil — flying into Hanoi from Perth, while John and I will arrive from Sydney on a direct nine-hour flight… seated proudly at the back of the plane. Character building, I’m sure.

We’re especially excited because a dear friend of ours, originally from Vietnam and now living in Melbourne, is one of the warmest, most generous souls we know. If the Vietnamese people are anything like her, we are in for something truly special.

So here we go — new cultures, chaotic traffic, incredible food, a touch of humidity, and no doubt a few unexpected moments along the way.

Adventure. Adventure. Adventure.

Let the good times begin.

I’ll be honest — I am very excited about this holiday… the flight, however, not so much. I know exactly how that sounds, and yes, I do feel a tiny bit guilty about it. But if I’m choosing between travelling in style or our nearest and dearest inheriting a little more one day… well… priorities! 😄

In fairness to John, he has done an absolutely amazing job organising everything. This is our first adventure with TripADeal, highly recommended by Hursty and Mags (who I know are reading this — so no pressure if it all goes pear-shaped!). Deep breaths all round.

So, with sweaty palms, long queues, mild pre-flight nerves and a ticket that stubbornly refused to be upgraded, off we set. We were flying with Vietnam Airlines, and Hue and David had previously given them a solid thumbs-up — although, it must be said, they were seated at the pointy end of the plane!

I won’t drag this part out… because in truth, it was absolutely fine. Nine hours of gloriously trashy television later and before I knew it, we were descending into Hanoi.

And what a welcome — mild winter weather! Coming straight from sweltering Sydney, it felt like absolute magic.

We were efficiently met by our TripADeal guide and whisked smoothly off to our hotel. First impressions: very good indeed. Spacious rooms, everything you could want, and best of all — it was already home to Jen and Neil, who had arrived a few hours ahead of us from Perth.

With a four-hour time difference catching up with me, there was only one sensible plan: shower and bed.

Fresh in the morning… we’re off on our first walking tour. Adventure continues.

Day 1 - Morning Walking Tour

A great night’s sleep works wonders. We woke fresh, the air surprisingly cool, and after a good breakfast we met our tour guide Tai — also known as Bobby.

Bobby is enthusiastic in the extreme and something of a comedian… very much appreciating his own jokes, sometimes more than his audience! There are 15 of us in the group (a couple still missing) and, as it turns out, we are all from Australia.

Before we set off, we have a briefing — and what timing. We have arrived in Vietnam on New Year’s Eve for Tết Nguyên Đán (Tet), the biggest holiday of the year. In short, the country more or less shuts down. Shops closed. Markets closed. The very market we are scheduled to visit… closed.

To their credit, our fresh-faced group takes the news remarkably well.

In a lovely gesture, Bobby presents each of us with a traditional red envelope for the New Year, complete with lucky money inside. He then walks us through the itinerary and Vietnamese tipping practices — with the careful detail of a Grade 2 teacher — all while quietly chuckling at his own running commentary. I jest, of course. It is clearly done with genuine warmth and a real desire to give us the best possible experience.

We learn about the currency, how to ask for prices, and the little practical tips that help avoid holiday mishaps. It is actually very helpful.

Eventually, it is time to leave the hotel and head out on foot to explore a very quiet Hanoi.

Our hotel sits right on the edge of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the peaceful heart of the city. Our first stop is a pagoda, where local Buddhists come to pray — a calm and fitting beginning to our first morning in Vietnam.

In Vietnam, the words “pagoda” and “temple” are often used interchangeably by visitors, but locally they serve different spiritual purposes. A pagoda (chùa) is primarily a Buddhist place of worship, where monks may live and where people come to pray to the Buddha, make offerings, and seek peace or guidance. A temple (đền), on the other hand, is usually dedicated to historical figures, national heroes, or local deities, reflecting Vietnam’s strong tradition of ancestor and folk worship. In simple terms, if you are honouring the Buddha, you are likely in a pagoda; if you are paying respects to a revered person or spirit, you are most likely in a temple.

The pagoda is thick with the gentle scent of incense. Families are out in force, dressed in their Sunday best — and oh my, the Vietnamese ladies are simply elegant in their traditional áo dài, the long flowing tops with side slits worn over trousers. Tiny boys look impossibly smart in bow ties and suits, while little girls shimmer in the most beautiful silks — colourful and absolutely gorgeous to witness.

Colour is something I expected in Vietnam, and I am not disappointed. With the recent Independence celebrations and the Tet New Year festivities, flowers are everywhere — elaborate displays, signs made entirely of blooms — and wherever your eye lands there are joyful bursts of yellow, orange and red. The weather is a soft grey — misty… or perhaps foggy — I’m not entirely sure which, but it is absolutely perfect walking weather.

After exploring the pagoda, we regroup with Bobby outside and continue our stroll around Hoàn Kiếm Lake towards the nearby temple.

Our destination is the historic Quán Thánh Temple, one of the four sacred guardian temples of Hanoi. Built in the 11th century, the temple is dedicated to Huyền Thiên Trấn Vũ (also known as the Black Turtle God), a Taoist deity believed to protect the northern direction and ward off evil spirits.

It is very busy — but not with tourists. Real families are here, quietly paying respects to ancestors and deities. There is a sense of intimacy and reverence that makes many of us feel we are gently intruding on something deeply personal. Rather than venture too far inside, we circle the peaceful grounds instead, soaking in the traditional arts, the soft music drifting through the air, and the statues that gracefully watch over the temple gardens.

From there we continue our walk, looping through leafy parks that hug Hoàn Kiếm Lake while Bobby gives us our first practical lesson in crossing Vietnamese roads. The traffic is surprisingly quiet because of Tet, but to our eyes it still looks wonderfully chaotic — a steady dance of scooters that somehow just… works. Deep breath, step forward confidently, and keep walking. Easier said than done, but we all survive!

Our destination is the oldest Catholic church in the city, built during the French colonial period. To reach it, we pass through the Government Administration area, where Bobby becomes noticeably more serious. No photos here, he tells us firmly, and ordinary people like us are not permitted inside certain buildings — only the important officials. There is definitely a faint sense of “them and us” in the air.

He pauses to point out the different coloured number plates on passing vehicles, explaining how they indicate various levels of government status — another small glimpse into how the system works. Just as he is warming to his topic, a couple of rather stern-looking guards appear and gently but very clearly usher him along. Message received.

We continue down a truly magnificent tree-lined avenue, the branches arching overhead like a natural cathedral ceiling, until the spires of St. Joseph's Cathedral, Hanoi come into view — our striking French-built Catholic church and the perfect next chapter in our Hanoi wanderings.

Then it was a gentle stroll back to the hotel for a relaxed lunch and a welcome bit of downtime. Bobby sensibly suggested we stick to eating in the hotel, as many of the restaurants he would normally recommend were closed for the Tet holiday. With a long bus journey ahead of us tomorrow, the last thing anyone wanted was a dodgy tummy — advice we were more than happy to follow.

So lunch it was in the hotel’s Chinese restaurant… and what a gorgeous, flavour-packed feast it turned out to be. Absolutely delicious and exactly what we needed.

The afternoon unfolded at holiday pace — an afternoon nap for some (no names mentioned), and a refreshing swim in the hotel pool, which was just what the doctor ordered.

We rounded off the evening in the best possible way: cocktails on the terrace overlooking Hoàn Kiếm Lake, fireworks popping in the distance, twinkling lights reflecting on the water, and the easy comfort of great company. A rather lovely end to our first full day in Hanoi.

Below is a very short video of the extremely quiet Hanoi streets with everyone on holiday and to cross the road, you walk through that!!!

Day 2  - Halong Bay

We are now taking a four-hour bus ride from Hanoi to Hạ Long Bay, where we will board our junk boat for the night. Hạ Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s most famous natural wonders, dotted with nearly 2,000 limestone karst islands and islets, many topped with lush greenery and rising dramatically from the emerald water — no wonder it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A junk boat, for those wondering (as I certainly was!), is a traditional wooden sailing vessel that has been used in Asia for centuries. Today’s versions — like our rather lovely floating hotel — keep the classic curved sails and wooden charm but are fitted out with comfortable cabins, en-suites and all the mod cons.

The journey from Hanoi to Hạ Long is fascinating in its own right. You pass hundreds upon hundreds of rice paddy fields, a patchwork of vivid green and shimmering water. Rice very much has seasons in Vietnam. Typically there are two to three crops a year in the north: some fields were bright green with young rice shoots, while others were flooded in preparation for the next planting. It is a beautifully hypnotic landscape.

The bus ride also involved another education seminar from Bobby — this time on how to cross the road in Vietnam. Apparently (and we will have to test this!) you simply raise your arm, walk forward steadily, and keep a constant pace. The cars and scooters will flow around you. Apparently!

We stopped halfway at a workshop supporting people with disabilities, many affected by Agent Orange from the American War (as it is known here — not the Vietnam War). The artisans create the most exquisite embroidered paintings. Oh my goodness — the skill and patience involved is AMAZING. Of course, we bought one… the umbrellas were irresistible.

Then came our first Vietnamese coffee experience. Neil and I tried the iced coffee — deliciously strong and sweet with condensed milk — while John opted for the hot version, which he declared very nice indeed.

Back on the bus and onward to Hạ Long. When we arrived, everything was seamlessly organised. You truly cannot put a price on having a guide who speaks the language and knows all the tricks — the whole process was wonderfully smooth.

We hopped onto a tender and boarded the Phoenix Cruise junk boat. Lunch on board was delicious, and then we went to inspect our rooms. I was fully expecting something rather ghastly and was honestly dreading going below deck — not even daring to hope for an en-suite. But to my absolute amazement… it was fantastic! Double doors opening to the sea breeze, en-suite bathroom, air-con — all the comforts of our Hanoi hotel, just a little cosier and gently bobbing.

The weather was overcast, so the views were not quite the postcard perfection you see online, but it had its own quiet serenity. The landscape absolutely draws you in — you become mesmerised by the shapes of the islands and the sheer number of them. Just beautiful.

Our first excursion was to the wet cave (water tunnel). You could kayak and get wet or take a wooden sampan rowed by a very skilled oarsman and stay dry. As it was quite chilly, we unanimously chose the dry option. It was busy — Tet is the biggest holiday — so the water was almost as lively as the streets of Hanoi, with kayaks and boats weaving around each other in a surprisingly polite ballet.

Through the tunnel we glided into a hidden water courtyard, completely enclosed by towering peaks and sheltered from the wind. Very peaceful.

There were monkeys there, just as Bobby had promised. I did briefly wonder if they were racist monkeys until he explained they are used in polio research — at which point I realised they were rhesus monkeys, not racist monkeys! We spotted several before heading back to the boat and on to our overnight anchorage.

Our next planned excursion is to a dry cave… but there are over 800 steps up and down. The way Bobby described it, I can report that roughly half the group immediately piked out!

Yes, the dry cave did have a lot of steps, but as I have mentioned before it is Tet holiday and everything is very, very busy — so the crowds meant we moved very slowly up the 400 steps and back down again. In the end it was not too strenuous at all, which is probably good training for tomorrow’s hike… 430 steps up, up and up!

The cave itself is enormous, filled with dramatic stalactites and stalagmites — and, of course, Bobby’s favourite… the very phallic-looking formation that had everyone giggling like schoolchildren. There is also the famous lucky tortoise head, which you are supposed to rub for good fortune — and naturally I was not about to miss that opportunity.

As impressive as the cave is, the real beauty lies outside. Hạ Long Bay is simply gobsmackingly beautiful and unlike anywhere else we will see on this trip. The misty skies almost add to the magic.

On the way down, Jen treated herself to a fresh coconut and thoroughly enjoyed the refreshing reward. Then it was back to the boat for a welcome hot shower, dinner, and a cooking class to round out another wonderful day.

Back on board, we counted at least 20 other cruise boats around us in Hạ Long Bay — it is very busy. Part of me wishes it were more secluded, but I suppose somewhere this special is always going to be shared.

Happy Hour was a little spoiled by the weather. Next came a cooking demonstration on how to make Vietnamese spring rolls. We all had a turn at rolling our own, which was great fun, but the wind whipping across the deck soon sent us scurrying downstairs… straight into a group that was having far too much fun. I suspect they may have skipped the 800-step cave climb and stayed firmly planted at the bar. A few of them had what can only be described as a full cackle — the rather screechy kind — which felt especially loud in the cosy confines of the boat.

Still, you cannot really begrudge people enjoying themselves. I will note for the record that our previously quiet end of the table was soon claimed by others also attempting to escape the enthusiastic cackling!

Dinner, however, was a complete spectacle. Drums began beating, the lights dimmed, and our starter arrived in procession — a hollowed-out pineapple glowing with tealights and surrounded by spring rolls. It was really quite special.

Then it was off to bed for us, as we have another early start in the morning.

Day 3 Ha Long Bay, Pearl Farm and Train Street

That night Newcastle United were playing, and John never rests easily when they are on. The symphony of mysterious banging and creaking noises from the boat certainly didn’t help matters — though I slept soundly, needless to say.

Morning dawned a little brighter, and today was the big climb up Titop Island (often misspelled in the brochures!). The island is named after Soviet cosmonaut Gherman Titov, who visited the bay with Ho Chi Minh in 1962.

It is also one of the very few places in Hạ Long Bay where swimming is permitted… but for us Aussies, the water was far too cold to be tempting.

So up, up, up we went. This was properly bum-burning, thigh-torturing work — but we made it! And oh my goodness, the views from the top were absolutely spectacular. Of course, what goes up must come down, and reversing our way down the 430 steps was no small feat either. Yikes.

A very well-deserved rest awaited us at the bottom, everyone glowing with a fine sense of achievement — and, thankfully, feeling considerably warmer than when we started.

Then it was back on the boat for the cruise back to port, before boarding the bus to a nearby pearl farm — and what an interesting visit that turned out to be.

Vietnamese pearl farming, particularly around Hạ Long Bay, benefits from the bay’s ideal salinity and mineral balance, which helps produce beautifully lustrous cultured pearls. The relatively stable water conditions and clean marine environment make this region especially well suited to pearl cultivation.

At the farm we were given a detailed demonstration of the delicate process. Natural pearls are incredibly rare — only about 1 in 10,000 oysters will produce one by chance. Cultured pearls, however, are far more reliable, with roughly 1 in 3 oysters successfully producing a pearl when assisted.

The process is quite fascinating (and very precise). First, there is a donor oyster, from which technicians carefully scrape a tiny piece of mantle membrane. Then they gently pry open the host oyster and insert both:

• a small round bead made from shell
  
  

• and a sliver of the donor membrane
  
  

This membrane is the magic ingredient — it stimulates the oyster to coat the bead with layers of nacre (mother-of-pearl), slowly forming the cultured pearl over time. It is intricate, patient work requiring remarkable skill.

After the demonstration we wandered through the pearl showroom… and then came the surprise. Pearls that are not good enough for jewellery are crushed and used in anti-ageing face cream.

Yes — that is exactly what I bought at the pearl farm! Oh my, how the times have changed.

Then it was back on the bus to Hanoi. Bobby offered us the option to cut nearly two hours off the journey by taking the toll road — for 15,000 dong per person. Everyone quickly agreed. Whether this was purely efficient tour management or a clever way to boost the tip pool for the Aussies… well, the jury is still out!

We did, however, arrive back in Hanoi much earlier than expected, which gave Bobby the chance to offer an extra excursion to the wonderfully whacky Hanoi Train Street.

And honestly — nothing quite prepares you for it.

This narrow residential street has active railway tracks running straight through it, with coffee shops and tiny homes pressed right up against the rails. When the train comes through, tables, chairs and the occasional startled tourist are swiftly pulled back to make way. Sitting there, it genuinely feels like if you stretched your arm out at the wrong moment, you could touch the train. Completely mad. Completely mesmerising.

A few interesting facts that make Train Street even more remarkable:

• The line is part of the North–South Railway, connecting Hanoi with Ho Chi Minh City.

• Trains pass only a handful of times per day, but timings can change, which adds to the suspense.

• Authorities have periodically closed the street to tourists due to safety concerns, though access often reopens informally through the cafés.

• Many families have lived along the tracks for decades — long before it became an Instagram sensation.

• The café culture there is relatively recent, growing rapidly with tourism over the past decade.

It is chaotic, slightly nerve-wracking, and utterly fascinating — one of those “only in Vietnam” moments that you really do have to see to believe.

We opted to walk back to the hotel via a bank machine — which turned into a mission in itself. After several failed attempts and much button-pushing (and perhaps a few muttered words), we finally managed to extract some cash.

Success at last… and I am pleased to report — no Santiago taxi moment for the Thommos!