Day 1 – Tokyo Bound! Phones, Fast Tracks and a Missing Husband!

And we're off! Our Japanese adventure officially began with a daytime flight out of Sydney at 9.00 am. A fairly civilised start, although we were still madly observing Uber's new way of getting to the airport. We haven't quite mastered how to make it work successfully on our own yet!

We were lucky enough to get the loveliest Uber driver, who had actually been to Japan and was full of recommendations about where we should go and what we should see. We eagerly soaked up all this wonderful local knowledge, until John asked him how long ago he'd visited Japan.

Twenty years ago!!

Well, there you go! All that valuable information we'd been enthusiastically absorbing at 6.00 am was only two decades out of date! 😂

But, and this is a BIG BUT, our lovely driver redeemed himself magnificently. He actually chased us into the airport terminal because John's phone had fallen out of his back pocket. THANK GOODNESS! A holiday without John's phone would have been an absolute disaster.

Of course, this was apparently my fault because I had the luxury of sitting on the side of the car with all the legroom, while poor John was squashed in behind the driver. Somehow, the awkward angle required to extract himself from the vehicle resulted in his phone making a bid for freedom. Clearly, I need to be more considerate of his travelling conditions!

Check-in was a breeze and the flight itself was good. There was a little hiccup back at The Club with the Melbourne Cup session entry, but thankfully the plane had Wi-Fi, so from 30,000 feet in the air I was able to jump in and help sort things out.

Don't you just love the evolution of technology? There I was, somewhere over the clouds, providing technical support back on the ground! Who needs an office when you have an aeroplane seat and Wi-Fi?

Immigration – The Great Queue-Jumping Plan!

Now, normally I am responsible for completing all the immigration forms and making sure we have everything organised. However, John has clearly been doing his homework and had discovered a clever way to apparently jump the queues by completing a family immigration pass.

QR codes sorted, passports ready and feeling rather pleased with himself, John scanned through immigration using his special fast-track arrangement.

There was just one small problem.

Despite completing the details for a travelling companion (and I actually watched him do it!), the QR code only covered HIMSELF!

So off he went through the fast lane, leaving me behind to fend for myself with the good old-fashioned paper forms.

Thanks, Johnny boy!

Eventually, I made it through, John had collected the luggage and we were in a taxi heading into Tokyo. A relatively painless 50-minute journey to our hotel in Shinjuku.

Welcome to Shinjuku!

Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's most exciting and energetic districts, famous for its dazzling neon lights, giant advertising screens, endless restaurants, shopping, entertainment and wonderfully chaotic streets. It is one of those places where Tokyo really comes alive, particularly after dark.

Think towering buildings, bright lights, busy pedestrian crossings and more places to eat than you could possibly explore in one visit.

Our hotel is right in the thick of it, and we're staying on the 37th floor, with absolutely spectacular views across the city. What a way to start our Japanese adventure! Tokyo seems to stretch forever, and I suspect we'll spend quite a bit of time simply looking out the window.

After settling in, it was time to venture out and find something to eat.

And Then There Were Two… Or Were There?

I stopped briefly to admire the robots in the hotel reception area (because, honestly, who wouldn't?), and when I turned around there was no Johnny boy!

He had VANISHED!

Deserted again. On Day 1!

Now, here's the funny part. I was actually walking right behind John, but somehow, between admiring the robots and getting into the lift, we'd become separated.

The lift in this building goes directly between Level 1 and Level 18, where reception is located. No stopping at any floors in between!

John had made it down to Level 1, while I was still upstairs waiting for him to reappear. He, meanwhile, was waiting for me downstairs. Eventually, I sent a text asking where on earth he was.

According to John's version of events, he turned around, realised I wasn't there and apparently said, "Ooops, I thought my wife was behind me."

The two gentlemen in the lift asked him what was wrong, and he explained that he'd lost me.

As they waved John goodbye on Level 1, they wished him good luck!

I think that says it all really. 😂

Eventually, we were reunited, and I was, of course, absolutely charm personified. Not a cross word, not a raised eyebrow… well, perhaps just a little one!

Dinner in the Alleyways of Tokyo – Our First Taste of Japan

After all the excitement of the day, it was time to find something to eat, and what better way to start our Japanese culinary adventure than to head down one of Shinjuku's fabulous little food alleyways.

We stumbled upon a fantastic little Yakitori restaurant tucked away in one of the narrow laneways. Picture smoke-filled air, the wonderful smell of charcoal BBQ drifting through the streets, tiny restaurants packed with people and an atmosphere that was absolutely buzzing. It was everything I had imagined Tokyo's little food alleys would be.

One rather interesting discovery was the smoking arrangements. Apparently, smoking inside the restaurant is perfectly acceptable, but if you want a non-smoking area, you need to sit outside! Quite the reverse of what we're used to back home.

We ordered two types of Yakitori: delicious little chicken skewers and Japanese leek skewers on their own. Both were simply delicious, with the leeks beautifully grilled and full of flavour. A wonderful introduction to Japanese street food!

We also ordered some French fries, which naturally became John's contribution to the cultural experience.

His theory? If you eat French fries with chopsticks, that somehow makes them more Japanese!

I think we may have a long way to go with John's culinary adventures. At least he was embracing the local customs, one chip at a time!

It was a wonderful first dinner in Tokyo. Great atmosphere, delicious food, bustling little laneways and a real taste of Japanese life.

A very successful start, particularly for someone whose food preferences could make travelling through Japan an interesting challenge!

A Pretty Impressive First Day!

After only a few hours in Japan, John had managed to:

• Nearly lose his phone before we'd even reached the airport.

• Discover that his immigration fast pass didn't include his wife.

• Somehow lose his wife despite her walking right behind him.

• Receive good wishes from two complete strangers who clearly felt he was going to need them!

A pretty impressive effort for Day 1!

Thankfully, there were no further dramas. We headed off to bed, enjoyed our lovely room and settled in for a good night's sleep.

Tomorrow is another day, and there is a whole lot of Tokyo waiting to be explored.

The autumn colours, the culture, the food, the bright lights and all those wonderful Japanese experiences are waiting for us.

And John? Well, he'll be on the lookout for chicken or beef, cooked properly, of course!

Thommo's Tours has officially arrived in Japan. Let's hope we can keep the two of us together for the rest of the trip!

Day 2 – Tokyo, Giant Cats and the Art of Advertising!

After a good night's sleep, we were ready to tackle our first full day of exploring Tokyo. Well, almost! Our body clocks were still very much on Sydney time, which actually turned out to be rather useful.

When we checked into the hotel, we'd noticed a sign advising guests of the expected breakfast waiting times. Apparently, if you turned up around 9.00 am, you could expect to wait approximately 30 minutes for a table.

Not us! We were still operating on Sydney time and wandered down for breakfast at around 7.00 am. No queues, no waiting, just straight in. Perfect!

However, when we finished breakfast and wandered back out, it was a completely different story. Yikes! The queues were stretching around the corner. Clearly, our jet lag was going to have some advantages after all!

Our First Day of Exploring Tokyo

Today's itinerary was all about strolling through the streets of Tokyo and visiting some of the planned points of interest along the way.

Our first target was Godzilla, which is quite famous in Shinjuku. The funny thing is that we can actually see Godzilla from our hotel room, so we decided there was no urgency to visit him just yet. We could tick that one off another day.

Instead, we headed off to see something I'd been particularly keen to experience – the famous 3D Cat!

The Famous 3D Cat of Shinjuku

Located right outside the East Exit of Shinjuku Station is an enormous curved LED screen, known as Cross Shinjuku Vision. It is home to the now-famous Shinjuku East Exit Cat, a giant calico cat that appears to pop out of the screen.

This isn't actually a hologram, but a very clever optical illusion. The curved screen and specially designed 3D animation create an incredible sense of depth, making the cat look as though it is sitting in a little room, leaning out over the street and almost reaching towards the people below.

The cat first appeared in July 2021 and quickly became an international sensation, attracting visitors from all over the world.

And I can see why!

We stood watching this enormous screen, and I have to say it was quite incredible. The detail and the illusion were amazing.

There was, however, one little observation from my marketing perspective.

To get to the cute 3D Cat, we had to sit through what seemed like an enormous amount of advertising! Ad after ad after ad, before finally being rewarded with our feline celebrity.

I couldn't help but admire the marketing strategy. Get the tourists there for the cat, keep them watching through all the advertising, and eventually give them what they came for!

Genius really. I was almost as impressed with the advertising opportunity as I was with the cat itself.

The screen is a huge outdoor advertising platform, and the 3D content makes it so much more engaging than your usual billboard. Rather than simply walking past an advertisement, people stop, watch, photograph and film it. Exactly what clever marketing is supposed to achieve.

The cat also has its own little routine, waking up in the morning, appearing throughout the day and eventually going to sleep at night. There are dedicated cat screenings at regular intervals, too.

I've included a video because a photograph really doesn't do this justice. You need to see it moving to appreciate just how clever it is.

A very entertaining start to our Tokyo sightseeing, and a wonderful example of how technology, creativity and marketing come together in Japan.

So far, Tokyo is living up to expectations. Bright lights, clever technology, fascinating streets and plenty to look at.

And we've only just started!

Day 2 – Train Troubles, Tranquil Forests, Kawaii Culture

After our successful start to Tokyo, it was time to venture a little further afield and explore some of the sights we'd carefully plotted on the Thommo's Tours itinerary.

First stop: Meiji Jingu Forest.

This looked lovely on the itinerary, and we could actually see the enormous green space from our hotel room. It is a bit like Tokyo's version of a central park, although with a much more spiritual and traditional Japanese feel.

But first, we had to get there!

The Great Tokyo Train Challenge

Now, getting on a train sounds simple enough, doesn't it? Not in Tokyo!

Shinjuku train station is an absolute monster. There are apparently around 200 exits, multiple railway companies, different train lines, numerous platforms and enough signs to make your head spin.

Our challenge was to find the correct exit, locate the right train and get ourselves on board, with the train due to depart in 13 minutes.

Well, we needed an hour and 13 minutes!

Boy oh boy, this is one very busy and complicated train system. We confidently entered what we thought was the correct section, only to discover it belonged to an entirely different railway company. Getting in and then getting out cost us $1.50 for the privilege!

Not quite the start we had planned, but a great first test of the technology. Another well-researched item from Thommo's Tours!

John had also researched the Suica Card, which is basically Japan's version of our Opal card. You top it up with money, tap on and tap off, and away you go. Just like home. What could possibly go wrong?

Yep, you guessed it!

Eventually, we found the correct train line and platform. John swiped his card through the entry gates without any problems, while mine flashed red.

However, the gates were open, so I assumed all was well and confidently walked through.

Well, not quite!

When we reached our destination, John exited through the gates without a problem. I tapped my card and it beeped, followed by a lady speaking to me in Japanese, telling me I needed an IC card.

An IC card? The Suica card IS an IC card!

I tried again. And again. And again. Probably about 15 attempts, with absolutely no success and, naturally, nobody around to help.

So, what does one do when stranded inside a Japanese train station with a card that apparently doesn't work and no-one to ask?

Well, I had to jump the gates!

Yes, ME! A fare dodger!

I was absolutely mortified. I could hardly believe what I was doing, but what else could I do? I will just have to ask for forgiveness at the shrine.

I suspect this train system is going to take a little more mastering than we anticipated. At least John and I were together, which was a good start after yesterday's hotel lift incident!

A Walk Through Meiji Jingu Forest

Finally, we were on our way and it was only a short walk to Meiji Jingu Forest.

Oh my goodness, what a surprise!

You walk away from the busy streets of Tokyo and suddenly find yourself in this beautiful, tranquil forest. You simply cannot hear the humdrum of the city. The noise, traffic and bustle seem to disappear completely.

Wide gravel pathways wind their way through enormous trees, with beautiful lakes, shrines, gardens and museum areas to explore. It is incredibly peaceful and quite difficult to believe you are in the middle of one of the busiest cities in the world.

A little history: Meiji Jingu is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. The forest was created in 1920, using more than 100,000 trees donated from all over Japan. Interestingly, it was deliberately designed to become a self-sustaining natural forest over the following 100 years and beyond.

And it certainly feels as though the plan worked!

The weather was lovely, cool and perfect for walking, so we simply wandered and wandered, taking it all in. There is something quite special about being able to escape the intensity of the city and enjoy such a beautiful natural environment.

It was one of those unexpected highlights that you don't necessarily appreciate until you're actually there.

Next Stop – Harajuku and Takeshita Street

After our peaceful forest experience, it was time for a complete change of scenery.

A short walk took us to Takeshita Street in Harajuku, and this was much more what I had imagined Tokyo to be!

Harajuku is famous for its youthful fashion, quirky trends and kawaii culture. Kawaii literally means cute, and this is definitely the place where cute goes into overdrive!

Takeshita Street is a narrow pedestrian shopping strip, approximately 350 metres long, packed with colourful fashion boutiques, sweet shops, novelty stores, accessories and every imaginable type of sugary treat.

Think bright colours, outrageous outfits, fluffy accessories, pastel everything and lots of young people embracing their own individual style.

There were shops selling the most amazing sweets, crepes, candy floss and all sorts of things that looked almost too pretty to eat.

We found a dried fruit shop, and oh my goodness!

The dried white peach was absolutely to die for. I could happily have bought the entire shop. It was soft, sweet and delicious, and I think I may have found a new favourite snack.

There were also some rather unusual cafes. Japan certainly has a different take on the traditional coffee shop. We spotted cafes where you can rent time with miniature pigs, cats, puppies, enormous fluffy white dogs, capybaras and even otters!

Apparently, with pet ownership being difficult for some people in Japan because of housing and lifestyle restrictions, these animal cafes offer an opportunity to spend time with animals without actually having to own one.

It's certainly a different concept, and there was no shortage of people keen to enjoy the experience.

We also discovered a little sugar shop selling the most delicious butterscotch I have ever tasted. Honestly, it was sensational. I think I've found my new favourite flavour!

Between the dried white peaches and the butterscotch, I managed to consume quite a quantity of both. In fact, I ate so much that I made myself feel quite sick.

A little lesson in self-control might be required on this holiday!

There is just so much to take in around Harajuku. Every shop seems to have something different, and you could easily spend hours wandering around discovering new things.

Shibuya Crossing and a Very Famous Dog

Next on the itinerary was Shibuya Crossing, the famous pedestrian crossing that you see in just about every photograph, television program and travel documentary about Japan.

It's the one where hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people cross in every direction at the same time. Traffic stops, the lights change and everyone heads off in their own direction. It's quite a spectacle.

We arrived expecting absolute chaos, but strangely enough, the streets seemed relatively quiet. I'm not sure where everyone was hiding!

Nevertheless, it is still an impressive sight, and standing there watching the crossing gives you a real sense of the scale and energy of Tokyo.

Nearby is the famous statue of Hachiko, Japan's most loved dog.

For those who don't know the story, Hachiko was an Akita dog who used to accompany his owner to Shibuya Station and return each afternoon to meet him when he came home from work.

Sadly, his owner died suddenly in 1925 and never returned. But Hachiko continued to visit the station every day for almost nine years, waiting for his beloved owner.

His incredible loyalty touched the hearts of the Japanese people, and he became a national symbol of devotion and faithfulness. A statue was erected in his honour and has become one of Tokyo's most famous meeting places.

And, of course, we had to have a look!

There was another queue, naturally, with people waiting patiently to touch the dog's feet and have their photograph taken beside him.

I am beginning to notice a pattern in Japan. If there is something to see, do, eat or photograph, there will be a queue!

I'm starting to think that if you don't have to queue for something in Japan, it probably isn't worth having!

Lunch – A Slightly Disappointing Culinary Adventure

By now, we were ready for lunch.

There was a massive shopping centre nearby, so we decided to head inside and see what was on offer in the food court.

Unfortunately, this was not quite the culinary experience I had in mind.

The food court seemed to be dominated by American fast-food outlets. John was quite happy because he found himself a Taco Bell, which was right up his street.

I, however, had my heart set on a poke bowl or perhaps some lovely fresh sushi.

There was nothing that appealed to me, so I sat and watched John enjoy his lunch while contemplating my options.

Once John had finished, we decided to go in search of somewhere that served sushi or a poke bowl.

Off we went, wandering around, looking for somewhere suitable.

Only to discover that I had apparently done a very thorough job of looking around the shopping centre, except for one rather important detail.

I hadn't gone far enough!

After all that searching, we eventually circled back to exactly the same food court we'd started in!

Oops!

So much for my navigation skills. Between the train stations, the Suica card and now the shopping centre, I'm beginning to think that Thommo's Tours might need to employ a dedicated navigator.

At least we were getting plenty of exercise!

Shopping, Suica Cards and the Most Amazing Food Hall!

Bellys full, it was now time to explore the department stores. We had originally planned to arrive in time for the opening ceremony, which apparently involves the staff lining up and giving customers a full-on Japanese bowing welcome as the doors open each morning.

Sadly, we were too early for the next opening, and quite frankly, we weren't particularly keen to queue just to watch a shop open. (Yes, I know, if you don't have to queue for it, it probably isn't worth having!)

So off we went, with another train journey required.

Oh boy. Not the bloody Suica card again!

This time I confidently tried my card at the ticket gates, only to be greeted by enormous flashing red lights. A very polite gentleman voice came over the speaker and, once again, explained that I needed an IC card.

An IC card? Haven't we been through this already?

John was safely through on the other side of the barrier, while I was stranded on the wrong side, trying to work out what on earth was going on.

Out came Google, I started searching for answers, restarting my phone and generally behaving like someone who had absolutely no idea what they were doing.

And then, finally, the penny dropped.

I had already tapped on!

I was trying to tap on again when I should have simply been getting on with my journey.

Honestly, I don't know what's happened to me. Usually I'm the one who sorts out all the technology, and now I'm the one holding up the railway system!

Anyway, crisis over and off we went.

Isetan – A Food Lover's Paradise!

One of the first things we discovered was the incredible food hall inside the station. The cakes, pastries and sweet treats were simply unbelievable. Beautifully presented, individually packaged and looking more like works of art than something you would pop into your shopping basket.

I could have spent hours looking at everything.

And then we arrived at Isetan.

Isetan is one of Tokyo's most famous department stores, particularly renowned for its extraordinary food hall, known as a depachika. These basement food halls are a Japanese institution, but I don't think I have ever seen anything quite like this.

Fortnum & Mason, eat your heart out!

The sheer range of food, the presentation, the attention to detail and the exquisite displays were just extraordinary. There were beautiful cakes, pastries, chocolates, savoury dishes, fresh produce and the most amazing gift boxes.

Everything was presented so elegantly. Even the packaging was beautiful.

It really struck me how much of Japanese culture is about making even the simplest things an art form. The food displays, the plastic food models outside restaurants, the gift wrapping, the pastries and even the way products are handed over to customers.

Nothing seems to be an afterthought. Everything is considered, presented and delivered with such care.

A Little Hermes Luxury!

We also had something special on our shopping list. We were heading to Hermes to buy a bottle of perfume for me.

Now, I knew Japanese service was something special, but this was an experience in itself!

We were shown to a seat, and the whole purchase became a little ceremony. The staff member wore white gloves, the perfume was carefully presented, and then came the unboxing.

Everything was handled with such care and precision. It was just a bottle of perfume, but the presentation made it feel like something quite extraordinary.

The attention to detail was incredible, and I loved every minute of it.

I had heard so much about Japanese service and the importance they place on presentation, respect and hospitality, but seeing it in action is something else entirely.

It seems that in Japan, even buying a bottle of perfume can become an art form!

Time to Put Our Feet Up!

By now, we had clocked up more than 17,000 steps, and the weather was turning rather miserable. It was raining, and our feet were telling us that perhaps we'd done enough exploring for one day.

So we decided to head back to the hotel for a well-earned siesta.

After all, the day wasn't over yet.

There were cocktail bars calling, and Thommo's Tours was certainly not going to let a little rain get in the way of that!

A quick rest, a chance to admire the view from our 37th-floor room and then it would be time to discover Tokyo after dark.

What a day! And we hadn't even made it to cocktail hour yet!

Beauty and the Beast – Cocktails with a Difference!

Well, after a very busy day, a little rest was definitely in order, but we weren't quite ready to call it a night.

We had heard about a rather special cocktail bar with a Beauty and the Beast theme, called Bar Crossing, and this was to be our destination for the evening.

So, out into the rain we ventured!

Eventually, after a little navigating (thankfully no Suica card required this time!), we found the bar.

And what an experience!

Once again, we discovered another Japanese art form – the art of turning something quite ordinary, like making a cocktail, into a complete experience.

It wasn't simply a case of ordering a drink and having it placed in front of you. There was theatre, presentation and such attention to detail. The whole experience was something to enjoy, not just the cocktail itself.

We had such a wonderful time and it was the perfect way to finish our first full day exploring Tokyo.

But there was one more lovely surprise before we left.

The lady at the bar noticed that we didn't have an umbrella and, clearly feeling sorry for us having to walk home in the rain, very kindly gave us one to use.

What a beautiful gesture! Such a simple act of kindness, but one that really touched us. We had already been so impressed by the politeness and thoughtfulness of the Japanese people, and this was another lovely example.

We headed back to the hotel, umbrella in hand, thoroughly content, a little tired and with more than 17,000 steps behind us.  I held the umbrella as I knew that would keep John by my side!!

From peaceful forests and quirky shopping streets to extraordinary food halls, luxury perfume, cocktails with a touch of magic and unexpected kindness from a stranger, Tokyo has certainly delivered.

Sweet dreams for both of us.

Let's see what tomorrow brings!

Day 3 – Goldfish, Ginza, Shopping Disappointments and a Little J-Pop!

A Leisurely Start… Or So We Thought!

Yesterday was a rather more relaxed start to the day. One thing we've discovered about Tokyo is that, despite being one of the busiest cities in the world, much of the shopping action doesn't really get going until around 10am.

So there was no great rush to get moving.

Our first stop was to be the Art Aquarium Museum in Ginza, which meant another train journey.

Fingers crossed my Suica card would behave itself today!

But first, breakfast.

And this is where we met our new friends from Toronto, Wally and his wife.

Now, Wally is quite the character. A real chatterbox and charmer, and clearly a man who enjoys a good conversation.

He announced to John that, just like him, he likes his women young.

Onya, Wally!

Getting away from breakfast proved to be quite the challenge. Wally was very keen to compare John's meticulously researched AI-generated itinerary with his own two Lonely Planet guidebooks.

It was a fascinating clash of travel-planning generations. Artificial intelligence versus good old-fashioned guidebooks.

And Wally wasn't about to let us escape without a thorough comparison!

Eventually, we managed to extricate ourselves and set off on our adventure.

Ginza, Here We Come!

Today we were heading to Ginza, Tokyo's famously glamorous shopping district.

Ginza has long been associated with wealth, luxury and sophistication. Its name actually comes from the silver mint established in the area during the Edo period, but these days there's considerably more gold than silver being flashed about!

Think enormous flagship stores, beautiful architecture, high-end boutiques, art galleries and some of the most expensive shopping real estate in Japan.

And practically every designer on the planet seems to have a building dedicated entirely to their wares.

Posh, posh, posh!

But first, we had to get there.

This was our first proper adventure on the Tokyo subway, and goodness me, we finally found all the people!

The train was absolutely jam-packed. And I mean jam-packed.

Where had everyone been hiding?

Fortunately, the trains are beautifully air-conditioned, so despite being squashed in with half of Tokyo, there wasn't a whiff of unpleasantness.

And the best news of all?

We nailed the journey!

Correct train, correct station, and my Suica card worked perfectly.

We were practically locals!

Rain, Umbrellas and Eye-Level Hazards

The rain had decided to join us for much of the day, which meant the streets were a sea of umbrellas.

Now, here's something nobody warns you about when travelling in Japan.

When you're surrounded by people who are generally shorter than you, their umbrella spokes are at precisely the right height to poke you in the eye!

Walking along a crowded Tokyo pavement in the rain becomes something of a defensive exercise.

Duck, weave, protect your face, repeat.

Between the umbrellas and the crowds, I was beginning to think we should have packed safety goggles.

An Aquarium Unlike Any Other

Our first destination was the Art Aquarium Museum in Ginza.

Now, this isn't your traditional aquarium with enormous tanks, sharks and stingrays. This is something entirely different.

It's an art installation built around the humble goldfish, with elaborate tanks, lighting, music and decorative displays turning the fish into living works of art.

The Japanese have a long history of appreciating ornamental goldfish, dating back hundreds of years, and the museum takes that fascination to a whole new level.

We were lucky enough to visit during a seasonal exhibition called Ginza's Goldfish Hundred Flowers Exhibition, celebrating the beauty of autumn through flowers, colour and Japanese-inspired garden displays.

Imagine beautifully illuminated tanks filled with goldfish of all shapes, sizes and colours, surrounded by intricate floral arrangements and seasonal decorations.

It was a wonderful combination of traditional Japanese aesthetics and modern art.

Who would have thought that watching goldfish swim around could be so mesmerising?

Only in Japan could someone take a goldfish bowl and turn it into an entire art exhibition!

A Surprise Stop at Chanel

Next on the agenda was the Uniqlo flagship store, but on the way we happened to pass Chanel Nexus Hall.

And there was a photography exhibition featuring works from London's National Portrait Gallery.

Well, that was too good an opportunity to pass up!

The exhibition, Icons and Image Makers: Photographs from the National Portrait Gallery, brought together portraits of well-known figures from the worlds of fashion, film, music and culture.

It was a lovely little slice of London in the middle of Tokyo, and quite an unexpected discovery.

One of the wonderful things about Ginza is that, tucked among all those enormous luxury boutiques, there are galleries, exhibitions and cultural spaces just waiting to be discovered.

And the best part was that we hadn't even planned to visit.

Sometimes the unexpected stops turn out to be the most interesting.

Right, enough culture. Time for some serious shopping!

Or so we thought…

Uniqlo – Eight Floors of… Really?

Then it was on to the famous Uniqlo flagship store.

Now, we'd been looking forward to this.

Eight storeys of Uniqlo!

Surely this was going to be something extraordinary?

Well… not quite.

Yes, there were eight floors, but each floor seemed to be about the size of our apartment. And our apartment isn't exactly enormous.

Then take away about a third of the space for escalators, lifts and cash registers, and suddenly eight floors doesn't sound quite so impressive.

We'd expected something a little more spectacular.

We still managed to buy a few things, of course. It would have been rude not to.

But the prices were much the same as back home, so there weren't any great bargains to be had.

A little underwhelming, to be honest.

Muji – More of the Same

Next stop was the Muji flagship store.

Surely this would make up for our Uniqlo disappointment?

Well, not really.

There was a little more space, but again, we found ourselves wondering what all the fuss was about.

Perhaps we'd set our expectations too high.

After seeing so many extraordinary shops in Tokyo, with their opulent interiors, beautiful displays, spacious layouts and service that borders on ceremonial, these two flagship stores felt surprisingly ordinary.

Nothing wrong with them, of course.

Just not quite the retail experience we'd imagined.

Sony, Max Mara and a Change of Plans

We then headed to Sony Lab, hoping to have a look around.

Unfortunately, Max Mara had other ideas.

The venue had been booked out for a private function, so there was no getting in for us.

Never mind. Onto the next plan.

John had his eye on a particular cocktail bar, but it wasn't opening for another three hours.

Three hours!

We weren't quite enthusiastic enough about cocktails to spend three hours hanging around waiting for one.

So Thommo's Tours made an executive decision.

Back to the hotel!

We stopped at a supermarket on the way home for a little look around, then enjoyed a few relaxing hours.

And by relaxing, I mean I had a lovely sleep.

Sometimes the best part of a holiday is having absolutely nothing to do for an hour or two.

J-Pop, Food Trucks and a Concert on Our Doorstep!

Feeling thoroughly refreshed, we headed out again that evening.

And what should we discover but a concert happening right outside our hotel!

There were food trucks, music, people milling about and a wonderful atmosphere.

So naturally, we decided to join in.

A few beers, a bit of nosh and some J-pop.

Perfect!

After a day of goldfish art, luxury shopping streets, slightly disappointing flagship stores and dodging umbrellas, it was a lovely way to finish the evening.

And the best part?

We hadn't even needed to catch another train.

My Suica card could have the night off.

Another day, another adventure, and another successful outing with Thommo's Tours.

Let's see what tomorrow brings!

Day 4 – Sunshine, Shinjuku and teamLab Borderless

Beautiful sunshine when we woke this morning, a stark contrast to the overcast, rainy day yesterday.

We have a full day planned and first stop is teamLab Borderless, an amazing digital art museum at Azabudai Hills, near Roppongi.

teamLab is a Japanese art collective made up of artists, programmers, engineers and designers who create immersive digital artworks using light, colour, sound and movement. The idea is that the art has no boundaries, moving between rooms and changing as you move through it. Sounds fascinating, and we are really looking forward to it.

But first we have to get there, which means another adventure on the Metro.

As we discovered yesterday, this is where all the people are!

Shinjuku Station is officially the busiest railway station in the world, with around 3 million passenger movements every day. That's over a billion a year! The morning rush hour is generally between 8am and 9am, with some of the busiest trains arriving between 7.45am and 8.15am.

Three million people a day and we just need to find the right train. Easy!

Well, as it turns out, it was easy peasy.

Suica card worked, we found the right train and John didn't lose me. Although I think his neck is sore from constantly looking back to make sure I'm still there. Clearly the disappearing-wife incident has scarred him for life!

We arrived at teamLab at 9.15am, well in time for our 9.30am booking, and straight in we went.

And WOW WOW WOW!

The senses are going crazy. Lights, colours, movement, sound, everywhere you look something different is happening.

It's hard to know where to look first, let alone how to describe it.

And this is only the beginning!  Below is a compliation of about 9 mins of what we saw in about 2 hours, hope you enjoy.

A Tea Ceremony Like No Other!

After wandering around the rooms at teamLab for hours, we were getting pretty tired and really just wanted somewhere to sit down.

So we found the tea house inside teamLab, which turned out to be an experience in itself.

John ordered hot chamomile tea with milk and some frozen yuzu yoghurt, and I ordered a yuzu green tea.

Well, this was a tea ceremony like no other!

You're sitting inside another interactive teamLab installation, and the heat from your tea somehow stimulates flowers and other beautiful images to grow out of your cup. As you move the cup, the flowers change and scatter across the table.

It was absolutely amazing! Who thinks of these things?

Only in Japan could having a cup of tea become an art installation.

Now, the experience was fantastic, but the tea itself?

Bloody awful!

My green tea was so bitter I could barely drink it. Luckily, we had the yuzu frozen yoghurt to take away the taste.

So, ten out of ten for the experience, considerably less for the tea!

But the sit-down was very welcome, and it was another one of those extraordinary little experiences that make teamLab so special.

Mori Tower, a Japanese Fashion Icon and a Glimpse of Mount Fuji!

Next stop was Mori Tower in Roppongi, where we went to see an exhibition about Japanese artist Mariko Mori.

Now, I hadn't really known much about her, but what an interesting woman!

She started her career as a fashion model before moving into art, and became known internationally for her rather quirky, futuristic style, combining Japanese pop culture, fashion, technology and science fiction.

Her early work often featured herself dressed in extraordinary costumes, looking like she'd stepped straight out of some futuristic Japanese fantasy world.

Over the years her work has evolved to include sculpture, photography, video and some pretty amazing installations exploring nature, spirituality and technology.

The exhibition, called Mariko Mori: All That Shines, covers more than 30 years of her work. Fascinating to see how her style has changed over the years.

And all this is in the Mori Art Museum on the 53rd floor of Mori Tower.

Now, while we're all the way up here, we may as well have a lookie-see at the observation deck on the 52nd floor!

And what a day to do it.

Beautiful clear blue skies, sunshine and views stretching across Tokyo as far as you could see.

The observation deck is about 250 metres above sea level, with enormous windows giving you an incredible view of this massive city.

And we even managed to catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji!

Well, the base of Mount Fuji.

The rest was hiding, but we're counting it!

After yesterday's rain, we couldn't have picked a better day to be up there.

Tokyo really is an extraordinary city, and seeing it spread out below us gives you some idea of just how enormous it is.

21_21 Design Sight – More About the Building Than the Art!

Then it was off to 21_21 Design Sight, another interesting stop on our art and architecture day.

This was one we were particularly keen to see, mainly because of the architect, Tadao Ando, who has also designed Benesse House, the hotel we'll be staying in when we visit Naoshima, Japan's famous art island.

Ando is one of Japan's most celebrated architects, known for his use of concrete, natural light, simple shapes and the way his buildings fit into their surroundings. Amazingly, he's largely self-taught and won the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize in 1995.

21_21 Design Sight was created together with the famous Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake and opened in 2007.

The building itself is fascinating. Most of it is underground, and the roof looks like one enormous folded sheet of steel, inspired by Miyake's concept of creating clothing from a single piece of cloth.

Very clever!

For us, this visit was really more about seeing the building than the artwork, particularly as we'll soon be staying in another of Ando's creations.

Having said that, the Issey Miyake designs and artworks on display were rather fascinating. His approach to fabric, shapes and the way clothes are constructed is so different.

It's interesting how the Japanese seem to blur the lines between art, fashion, architecture and everyday life.

And after seeing the building, we're now even more interested to see what Ando has created on Naoshima.

Another one ticked off the Thommo's Tours itinerary!

One Last Night in Tokyo… For Now!

We're off out shortly to explore Golden Gai, the famous little area in Shinjuku packed with tiny bars, narrow alleyways and plenty of character.

John has a few cocktail bars in mind, so we'll see where Thommo's Tours takes us tonight!

Tomorrow we leave Tokyo and head off to Hakone for the next part of our adventure.

But it's not goodbye to Tokyo just yet, as we'll be back at the end of our trip.

And hopefully, if the weather gods are kind, we'll finally get a proper look at Mount Fuji.

We've seen the base, now we'd quite like to see the rest of it!

Fingers crossed for clear skies!